Bamiyan Caves

History

EXPLORATION HISTORY: 0050 to 0220: Bamiyan was the centre of the Kushan empire. 2nd and 3rd century: The colossal statues were excavated. 375: The "White Huns" (Yaftalee, Hephthalites) conquered Bamiyan and adopted Buddhism. During their rule, till 550, Buddhism Buddhism flourished and Bamiyan became a prominent place of pilgrimage. 5th to 6th century: Monks excavated grottoes to dwell in the rock. 632: XUANZANG (648) visited and reported 10 monasteries and about 1000 priests and monks (HUEI CHAO (729: 36 in FUCHS 1938: 448-449): »Die Wohnungen sind meist an Bergen (erbaut) [the dwellings are (built) on the mountains.« 651: Arabs conquered Afghanistan but left Bamiyan untouched. 10th century: Under the Turkish Ghaznavids became Bamiyan an Islamic centre and Buddhism was lost. 998-1030: Mahmud of Ghazni,who called himself »Breaker of Idols« had the faces and limbs of the giant statues destroyed (MECKLENBURG 2003). 1221: Genghis Khan (Chingiz Chan, Gengis Khan, Jingis Khan) had the village burned down and theirrigation system destroyed, turning the fertile soil into a permanent desert, but left the colossal statues untouched (afghanistan-seiten.de/afghanistan/pro1a.html#bamiy…, accessed 28.05.2004) though some assumed it (WALTER 1828, 1: 127). 1590 ±6: ABUL FAZL (edited by JARRETT & SARKAR 1949, 2: 412-413) reckons there are 12,000 man-made rock chambers near the castle "Toman Zohac Bamyan" (RITTER 1817: 799-800). 1700: HYDE (1700 edited 1760: 229-230) appears to be the first European mentioning Bamiyan (PRESIDENT 1886: 325). 1775 ±5, circa: The noted Hindu ascetic »Praun Poory« is said to have visited the place between 1770 and 1780 and was struck with the number of statues that still remained, although the place had long been deserted by its inhabitants (WALTER 1828, 1: 127). 1815: ELPHINSTONE (1815: 487) had heard about the site. 1817: Carl RITTER (1817) made the geographically interested world aware of »Tempelgrotten [sacred temple grottoes used for religious purposes]« and »Felsengemächer [sizeable rock chambers / rock cabinetts]« or »Bergzellen [mountain cells]« used for monastic dwelling purposes]« excavated at the fitting location »Baumeean« on a major trade route. 1823.03.25-28: William MOORCROFT (1842, 2: 386-393), George Trebeck, W. Guthrie and Mir Izzet Ullah were possibly the first European visitors. 1828: Hamilton WALTER (1828, 1: 126) notes from the colossal statues that »they are all much disfigured … for the Mahommedans never march that way without firing two or three shots at them …« 1829: James TOD (1829-1832 edited 1914, 1997, 1: 38) recommended to search the »caves« of Bamian for Indo-Scythic traces. 1835.04.24: Reverend Joseph Wolff (1835: 222), on his way from »Khoolloom« (Khulm) to »Cabool« (Kabul) hurries past without noticing any cave and reports from »Boot-Bamian: There are still idols of stone of an immense height preserved …« 1836: Charles MASSON (1836: 707-720; 1842-44, 2: 382-393) visited and sketched. 1839.09.03-06: William GRIFFITH (1847: 401-403, plate XVII = 17, facing page 398), a surgeon in the pay of an occupying army, noticed botany and »caves« throughout »Bamean« when he passed by. 1840.10.07-11: E. KAYE (1879: 248-249), distracted with making maps while invading an unknown country, noticed »many caves« at »Bamian.« 1885.10: The surveyor M.G. TALBOT (1886: 329-334) spent four days at »Bamian« triangulating and plane tabling. 1922 - 1933: The French archaeologists GODARD, GODARD & HACKIN (1928), HACKIN (1934), HACKIN & CARL (1933) commenced intensive investigation. 1947.05.24: Knut LINDBERG (1961a: 11) visited, explored and tried to collect cave life. 1957.07.31: Knut LINDBERG (1961a: 11) visited, took altimetre readings and tried to collect cave life. 1957.09: COU, J de collected "Argasidées" from »Niche-grotte du Grand Bouddha« (LINDBERG 1958: 120, 1961a: 11). 1960ies and 1970ies: Bamiyan and the nearby lakes Band-i-Amir became a tourist attraction. 1970-1978: HIGUCHI et al. (1974, 1976a, 1976b, 1978a, 1978b, 1980, 1983-1984; Higuchi, Takayasu & Barnes, Gina 1995) undertook detailed archaeological investigations. 1978 onwards: Communist regime in Kabul and autonomy in the Hazarajat country resulted in famines and politicians flourishing on religious pretexts. 2001.03.01: Quatratullah Jamal, information minister, told reporters that the statues at Bamiyan are destroyed, following a decree by the Taliban chief Mullah Mohammed Omar (STEVENS 2001; TALIBAN BEGINS… 2001). Taysir Alony, reporter of Al-Jasira / Al-Jassira, filmed the demolition of the colossal statues (ASSHEUER 2006.08.03; FREI 2006 movie). 2002.05-08: In May 2002, local authorities moved around 600 cave dwellers, who had made makeshift homes within the site's cave complexes, to places such as Sang Chaspan - a village two miles from Bamyan - and other settlements in the Soor Ghul valley further afield. Three months later, in August 2002, they still had to make do with crude tents and few facilities … While the resettlement debate has been rumbling on, a fresh set of refugee families have moved into the caves. Roomy, cool in summer and relatively sheltered, they compare favourably with other housing options in the area. They were especially popular during the recent conflict as they provided protection from bombing - a key consideration during the reign of the student militia, who razed several Bamyan villages to the ground. Other people from outlying districts come to the caves to escape drought and food shortages. They're also attracted by the local clinics and schools - which are unknown in most of the province (KAROKHAIL 2002). 2004: Tourists, particularly backpacking Japanese, come to see the Buddhas (COHEN 2004: 165-166). CULTURAL HISTORY: The Cavern of Prometheus, reported by the "historians" (public relation managers) of Alexander the Macedonian, has been identified, for some time, with the grottoes at Bamiyan (note 9). The latter, however, were excavated only some 400 years after Alexander's brigands passed (somewhere else?) through Afghanistan. NOT SEEN bibliographical references: Possibly useful are DEMANDT, Alexander (2009): Alexander der Grosse. Leben und Legende.- (München: C. H. Beck). 655 pages. ELPHINSTONE (1815: 318, 486, 487); FARHANG JAHANGIRI (a.i., in HYDE 1700 edited 1760: 229-230); GERARD & BURNES (1833a: 7-9); HYDE (1700 edited 1760: 229-230); MASALIK wa MAMALIK (a.i., in HYDE 1700 edited 1760: 229-230); RITTER (1837: 244); RITTER (1838: 24-??); WOOD (1841 edited 1872: lxvii, 125f). Herbert Daniel Gebauer - 01/02/2016

NOTES NOTE 1: The number varies between 750 »cave openings« (COHEN 2004: 164), 751 »caves« (HIGUCHI & BARNES 1995), appromimately 1000 (FEROOZI & TARZI 2004), 12,000 »galleries« (KEMPE 1988: 44) and »an infinity of cave dwellings« (HOLDICH 1910 edited 2002: 266) or »sumaj / sumaj« (ABUL FAZL 1590: Ain-i Akbari.- edited by Gladwin 1783, 2: 183 edited 1800, 2: 208, 3: 168-169; edited by Blochmann 1873,1: 590; edited by Jarrett & Sarkar 1949 edited 1993, 2: 412-413). »A Middle Age chronicler… writes that there were up to 12,000 grottos in Bamiyân,a number seemingly exaggerated, but if one accounts for all the grottos in the 50 km of surrounding valleys, one would come up with that number« (FEROOZI & TARZI 2004: 8). NOTE 2, rock art: XUANZANG (648 edited by Beal 1884-1885, 1906 edited 1981, 1: 49-53) recorded the colossal statues and associated "convents" (in Sanskrit, Pali, etc: vihara; Buddhist monasteries) but no chaitya (rock cut temple). ABUL FAZL (s.a., circa 1590: Ain-i- Akbari.- edited by Gladwin 1783, 2: 183 edited 1800, 2: 208, 3: 168-169; edited by Blochmann 1873,1: 590; edited by Jarrett & Sarkar 1949, 1993, 2: 412-413) notes excavated »caves« with plaster and paintings, and three colossal statues. BURNES (1832, 1: 182-188; 1833: 561-564, plate 19) gives a description and sketch of the colossal idols. BEAL (1883-1884 edited 1906, 1981, 1: 51 note 175) refers to »… Hyde quoting Masâlik Mamâlik and the Farhang-i- Jahângiri of Ibn Fakred-din Angju, says the two larger statues are 50 cubits [22.86 m] high, one called Surkh-but (red image) and the other Khink- but (grey image), and at some distance is a smaller one "in formae vetulae," called Nesr.« GROUSSET (1929, 1932, 1957, 1971, 1977; German edition 1986: 90-94) focusses on rock art (mural paintings). GODARD, GODARD & HACKIN (1929), HACKIN & CARL (1933) and HACKIN (1932) studied the cave paintings of Bamiyan and gave us »a number of "fixed points" and done much to alter our conception of the origins and development of what has been called Sassanian Buddhist painting« (BARGER 1939: 381). CONCERN OVER AFGHAN ANTIQUITIES (1997a, 1997b) says that 17 years of war have inflicted considerable damage. Monastic cells near the Buddhas have been used as mujahideen barracks and ancient cave paintings have been blackened by soot from cooking fires. The paintings have also been scribbled over with graffiti (reliefweb.int/w/rwb.nsf/0/a73766f96e0506b0c125644a… accessed 25.05.2004). NOTE 3, religious use: The grottoes were originally used by Buddhists. Colour slides from Bamian photographed between 1966 to 1976 provides people.freenet.de/ag-afghan/e-index.htm (accessed 15.04.2004). WILFORD (1801: 495, 523-528) believed »Bámían, though not mentioned by name in NONNUS's Dionysiaes (B.17, v. 40, &c.), is well described by him as the abode of the benevolent Brongus, who lived in Samach'hes, or recesses artfully excavated in the mountains. Brongus is obviously the Bhrañga, or Bhrañgas of the Púranas, called also Sarasa´la …« NOTE 4, secular use: HUEI CHAO (729, folio 36; translated by Godard, Godard & Hackin 1928: 83; edited by Fuchs 1938: 449 edited 1996: »Die Wohnungen sind meist an Bergen (erbaut) [The homes are mostly built onto the mountains].« MAITLAND (1886: 347-350): »They are almost all inhabited by Tajiks, or used as store-rooms, and the entrance is frequently protected by a low wall …« TALBOT (1886: 332-333): »The caves are innumerable, they extend for miles… Most of the caves in good order are now inhabited, so I could not visit them; of those I did visit most had domed roofs, the floor being square… The caves near the idols are all connected by rambling passages and staicases cut in the rock. Many of the caves have paintings, but we could not see them as the caves were full of grass, etc., stored for winter.« KAYE (1879: 248-249, 338): »… many caves in the cliff side, having intricate connecting approaches, and galleries cut within the rock… formed dwellings for many Bamianchis, and also for some camp followers of the British …« CONCERN OVER AFGHAN ANTIQUITIES (1997a, 1997b): Monastic cells near the Buddhas have been used as mujahideen barracks. KAROKHAIL (2002): In May 2002, local authorities moved around 600 cave dwellers, who had made makeshift homes within the site's cave complexes, to places such as Sang Chaspan - a village two miles from Bamyan - and other settlements in the Soor Ghul valley further afield. Three months later, in August 2002, they still had to make do with crude tents and few facilities. While the resettlement debate rumbled on, a fresh set of refugee families had moved into the caves. Roomy, cool in summer and relatively sheltered, they compare favourably with other housing options in the area. They were especially popular during the recent conflict as they provided protection from bombing –a key consideration during the reign of the student militia, who razed several Bamyan villages to the ground. Other people from outlying districts come to the caves to escape drought and food shortages. FREI, Christian (2006 movie: The Giant Buddhas) interviews Sayyed Mirza Hussain, a »hill cave dweller (literally: Berghöhlenbewohner), whose family lives »in the rock« (im Fels) since 70 years and who eye-witnessed the blasting (ASSHEUER 2006.08.03: 37). NOTE 5, economic use: Buddhist »Tempelgrotten« (rock temples) and »Felsengemächer« (rock chambers used for secular purposes) are found at centres of interior and international economy and trade (HEEREN 1796, 1805, 1815 part 1, section 2, pages 620, 658-690). NOTE 6, political use: TALIBAN BEGINS DEMOLITION (2001.03.02): »Disregarding international outcry over its decision to destroy the ancient Bamiyan Buddha statues and other heritage artefacts, Afghanistan’s Taliban on Thursday began pounding the statues in various cities by using canons and battle tanks to blast them. Afghanistan radio quoted Quatratullah Jarnal … following a fresh decree from its [the Taliban’s] chief, Mullah Omar …: God almighty is the real shrine and all false shrines should be smashed.« Taysir Alony, reporter of Al- Djasira / Al- Jassira, took video footage of the statue's blasting (FREI 2006 movie: The Giant Buddhas; ASSHEUER 2006.08.03). NOTE 7: The site lies some 240 km (along the road) west of Kabul (AFGHAN TOURIST ORGANIZATION 1977: 22). Also found spelled Bamean (GERARD & BURNES 1833a); Bameean (KIDDER 1842 chapter VII; MACRORY 1966 edited 1967, 1972, 1986, 2002; RITTER 1838); Bamian (ADAMEC 1991: 46; ASSHEUER 2006.08.03; BEAL 1883-1884 edited 1906, 1: 51 note 175; BURNES 1833; HAMILTON 1828,1: 126; HARTWIG 1871a: 183; KAYE 1879: 248-249; LEECH 1845b: 660; LINDBERG 1958: 120; 1961a: 11; McCRINDLE 1893; MAITLAND 1886; MODE 1999 notes 59, 68; RITTER 1818: 558-559); Bamiyân (FEROOZI & TARZI 2004); Bâmiyân (FOUCHER 1924a, 1924c); Bamiyan (COHEN 2004: 164-165; LINDBERG 1949a: 38; TARZI 1977); Bamyan (SPELEOLOGIE AFGHANE 1975); Baumean am Paropamisus (RITTER (1817: 692, 694); Fanyenna / Fan-yen-na (XUANZANG 648 edited by BEAL 1884-1885, 1906 edited 1981, 1: 49). NOTE 8: »Shar-i-Gholgola is the most important ruined city in the valley. The name means 'city of sighs', and climbing to the top of a dramatic nearby cliff to look across the valley at the Buddhas used to be a popular activity. The sighs of visitors continue to echo from the peak, though their timbre has changed« (LONELY PLANET, Afghanistan (lonelyplanet.com/destinations/middle_east/afghanis… accessed 22.05.2004). NOTE 9: RITTER (1817: 799) was the first to identify Arrian's Cavern of –>Prometheus with a »Höle« (sic! for: Höhle) at »Baumean« (sic!). McCRINDLE (1893, 1896 edited 1969: 83 note 1): »At Bamian [sic!], which lies on one of the routes from Kabul to Baktria, there are some very notable caves, one of which, some think, must have been that which the Greeks took to be the cave of –>Prometheus. But Alexander does not appear to have selected the Bamian route either in crossing or recrossing the Kaukasos« (sic! for: Paropamisos). Herbert Daniel Gebauer - 01/02/2016