PRAGBODHI CAVE, Kiryama: Dhongra Pahar

(Manpur - IN)
24.733300,85.050000
Grottocenter / carte

Description

Herbert Daniel Gebauer - 07/05/2016

A modified natural rock shelter (note 1) of »oval shape« (DOYAL 1904 published 1907: 32) associated with both Hindu and Buddhist religious traditions, including the Nagdwar legend (note 2), is found on Dhongra Pahar (note 3), a hill that is believed to be the Pragbodhi Hill (note 4) of Buddhist tradition. The hill, indicated »1062« (324 m asl) on AMS sheet NG45-13 Gaya (1962 edition) lies east of about midway between Gaya and Bodhgaya (note 5). NOT SEEN ARCHAEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF INDIA (1873 for 1872-1873, vol. 3: 105). SITUATION 1886: The »Bodhidrum« (Bodhi-tree) lies 15 li (4.25 km) south-west of »Bauddh Gaya« (Bodhgaya) and the Pragbodhi Cave itself »half a yojana« (5.7 km) north-east of the Bodhi tree (LEGGE 1886 after: FAXIAN). SITUATION 1871: Pragbodhi Hill lies 10 km south-east of Gaya (CUNNINGHAM 1871, 1: 3, plate III) and »… to the south-east [of the hill called Brahma-juïn, or Brahma-yoni, which itself rises south-west of »Bauddh Gaya« = Buddha Gaya town, and], across a great river (the Phalgu), there was a mountain named Po.lo.ki.pu.ti, or Pragbodhi, which Buddha ascended for the purpose of dwelling in silent solitude upon its summit … but descended on the south-west side … Pragbodhi is the Morat Pahar …« (CUNNINGHAM 1871: 386-387). SITUATION 1901: »… about halfway up the north-western slope« of Dhongra Hill (DOYAL 1904 published 1907: 32). SITUATION 1908: Pragbodhi Hill lies midway between Bodhgaya (N24°42': E085°00') and Gaya (N24°49': E085°01') (IMPERIAL GAZETTEER 1907-1909, 9: 45) and 10 km south-east of Gaya (IMPERIAL GAZETTEER 1907-1909, 12: 198). SITUATION 1937: The hill »Morâ-Tâl-ka-pâhâd« lies 5 km (in a direct line) north-east of Bodhgaya (DEY 1937 edited 1974: 158). SITUATION 2005: »From Bodhgaya, grab a Gaya-bound shared autorikshaw (Rs 5) to Khiryama [note 6a], where you'll have to walk across the bridge [probably across the Mahanadi]. There you'll find a path on the right-hand side that leads you 5 km to the caves. Alternatively, you can hire an autorikshaw in Bodhgaya for the entire trip (Rs 200)« (LONELY PLANET, India 2005: 510). SITUATION 2002: »There is a large dry riverbed, which is a turnoff to the right from the Gaya road, 9 km out of Bodh Gaya. During the dry season, it winds its way through three villages including Khiriyama [note 6b]. It is advisable to undertake this walk in winter only as it gets very hot, in summers. This walk should only be attempted in winter; at other times it gets far too hot. There is a Tibetan monastery … at the top of the cliff. There are a few smaller caves also, in the vicinity« (travel.indiamart.com/bihar/caves/mahakala-caves.ht… accessed 2002). »Mahakala Caves (or Dungeshwari) Caves, 18 km north-east of Bodh Gaya« (culturopedia.com/Places/places.html accessed 2002). SITUATION 10: »Today there is a small temple near the cave run by some friendly Tibetan monks. If you climb from the cave to the top of the mountain you will see the remains of several ancient stupas and be rewarded by a great view. You will also be able to see the spire of the Mahabodhi temple in the distance. Pragbodhi is a wonderful place to spend the day or even a few days. The monks will be happy to provide you with a basic accommodation but water is scarce so use as little as you can; you might even consider bringing your own drinking water with you. The usual way to get to Pragbodhi is to take the bus that plies the old Gaya road following the river, get off at the village of Kiriyama and walk from there. Kiriyama is where the second line of power pylons cross the river. The more enthusiastic pilgrim might like to go all the way by foot. To do this head directly east from Bodh Gaya towards the mountains, crossing the Neranjara and Mohana Rivers on the way. When you get to the mountains simply follow them northward until you get to the cave. It is a pleasant walk of about 6 kilometres through very attractive countryside. If you set out at dawn you can arrive at about noon, spend the day at Pragbodhi meditating, sleep overnight and walk back the next morning. You might also like to take with you a copy of the Mahasihanada Sutta and or the Ariyapariyesana Sutta in which the Buddha vividly about his six year quest for truth. Both suttas are in Bhikkhu Bodhi's The Middle Length Discourses« (buddhanet.net/e-learning/pilgrim/pg_22.htm accessed 2003.09.28). CAVE DESCRIPTION 1901: »The entrance to the cave, which has the shape of a crescent, was at the time of my visit, December 1901, closed by a masonry wall, erected some 7 years before by a Saddhu, who now lives there. It admitted access to the interior through a small door, formed by a wooden frame, about 4 ft. high and 2 ft. wide. I could not observe any marks of chiselling inside the cave, and I think the cave is a natural one, and not an artificial« (BLOCH in DOYAL 1904: 32 note). CAVE DESCRIPTION 1904: »The cave is excavated at the base of a precipice of rock that rises high above it towards the top of the hill. In front of the cave is a more or less level space about 60 feet long, and 12 or 13 feet wide [about 18 by 4 m] , which opens on the north-east side where it falls away in the general slope of the hill side. Immediately in front of the cave, however, is a barrier of rock, which completely shuts out the cave from view from below … The entrance of the cave fitted with a chaukat (wooden frame) … The chamber within is of an irregular oval shape, 16 feet 5 inches [17.7 m] from north-east to south-west. The roof of the cave is vaulted or concave, and is 9 feet 7 inches [2.9 m] high at the highest point. The cutting is very rude and uneven, as if the cave had been left unfinished« (DOYAL 1904 published 1907: 32) CAVE DESCRIPTION 2005: »The three main caves contain several shrines for Buddhists and one for Hindus« (LONELY PLANET, India 2005: 510). CULTURAL HISTORY - Buddhist religious folklore: 0415 »… Phou sa [Buddha] entering [the "stone grotto"] and facing the west, sat with his legs crossed and thought with himself 'in order that I should accomplish the law, I must have a divine testimonial.' Immediately his shadow depicted itself on the wall; it was three feet high« (KITTOE 1847b: 953-976 quoting LAIDLEY on »Fa Hian« = FAXIAN ca. 415 A.D. for 399-414). 0648 »The Bodhisattva descended, and half-way down the south-west slope he halted. There, backed by the crag and facing a torrent, is a great stone chamber. Here he sat down cross-legged. Again the earth quaked …« (BEAL 1884-1885, 2: 114 after XUENZANG 648). and the Bodhisattva leaves for the tree at Bodhgaya. 1997 Across the »river« (Tungabhadra) are unspecified »Dungeshwari and Suraya temples« (LONELY PLANET, India 1997: 471). 2002 circa: »… the remote Mahakala Caves are famous for the severe penance that Buddha subjected himself to. As a consequence of the penance, Buddha became absolutely emaciated and skeletal. Buddha finally realised the futility of all self-denial he indulged into, for years. This realisation made him leave for Bodh Gaya where he finally attained enlightenment, after a final strife with worldly temptations« (travel.indiamart.com/bihar/caves/mahakala-caves.ht… accessed 2002). »Mahakala Caves (or Dungeshwari) Caves … is the site where the Buddha did the severe penance that resulted in the familiar image of him as a skeletal, emaciated figure« (culturopedia.com/Places/places.html accessed 2002). 2005 »Dhungeshwari Cave Temples, where Buddha underwent years of penance before descending to Bodhgaya …« (LONELY PLANET, India (2005: 509). CULTURAL HISTORY - Hindu religious folklore: DOYAL (1904 published 1907: 32) mentions the »image of an eight-armed goddess … passing under the name of Dhongreshvari or Dhongra Devi.« Dhongra Devi, who is interpreted as Mahakala (literally: the great dark one = Kali), is obviously an updated version of the ancient local goddess Dhungeswara (Dhongreshwari, Dhungeshwari), made suitable for tame housewifes by her male boss Dhongreshvara.

Herbert Daniel Gebauer - 07/05/2016

NOTE 1: FAXIAN (ca. 415 A.D. for 399-414 A.D., the "Fa Hian edited by LAIDLEY in KITTOE 1847b: 953-976) notes »a stone grotto« and XUENZANG (648 A.D. translated by BEAL 1884-1885, vol. 2, book 8, pages 114-115) »a great stone chamber backed by the crag and facing a torrent.« DOYAL (1904 published 1907: 32) believes to have visited a man-made rock chamber but obviously describes a natural cave: »The chamber within is of an irregular oval shape … The cutting is very rude and uneven, as if the cave had been left unfinished.« BLOCH (in DOYAL 1904: 32 note) opts for a natural origin: »I could not observe any marks of chiselling inside the cave, and I think the cave is a natural one, and not an artificial.« NOTE 2: FAXIEN (circa 415, The Fa Hien edited and translated by LEGGE 1886): »On the wall of the rock there appeared immediately the shadow of a Buddha, rather more than 3 feet in length, which is still bright at the present day..« XUENZANG (648 translated by BEAL 1884-1885, 2: 115): »… the dragon [Nag, Naga] dwelling in the cave said: "This cave is pure and excellent. Here you may accomplish the holy (aim). Would that of your exceeding love you should not leave me." Then Bodhisattva having discovered that this was not the place for accomplishing his aim, to appease the dragon, he left his shadow and departed.« NOTE 3: Dhongra Pahar (Dhungra, Dongra, Dungra Hill) is the middle part of Mora Tal ka Pahar (tal = lake, pahar = hill), the »Morat Pahar« of CUNNINGHAM (1871: 386) and »Morâ-Tâl-ka-pâhâd« of DEY (1937 edited 1974: 158), a clumb of hills which is washed at its south-eastern base by the Mora Lake (DOYEN 1904 published 1907: 32). NOTE 4: The Sanskrit "pragbodhi" [corresponding to the Chinese "Tsin-ching-kio" of Beal's Xuanzang editions) means »prior to enlightenment« (literally: before perfect intelligence). NOTE 5: Bodhgaya (Bodh Gaya, Buddh Gaya, Buddha Gaya) 24°42'N: 84°59'E (nima.mil/geonames accessed 16.11.2003), lies at a distance of about 13 km (LONELY PLANET, India 2005: 509) along the road south of Gaya (24°47'N: 85°00'E WGS 84). NOTE 6: The village of Kiriyama (buddhanet.net/e-learning/pilgrim/pg_22.htm accessed 2003.09.28) or Khiryama (LONELY PLANET, India 2005: 510) is neither listed on nima.mil/geonames (accessed 16.11.2003) nor marked on AMS sheet NG45-13 Gaya (U502 series, 1962 edition).

Documents

Bibliography 07/05/2016

Histoire

EXPLORATION HISTORY: 0400 (circa): FA HIAN (ca. 415 for 399-414) visited. 1875: CUNNINGHAM (1871: 387) was »informed that a cave still exists [on "Morat Pahar"].« 1894: An unidentified saddhu closed the shelter by a masonry Wall (BLOCH in DOYAL 1904: 32). 1901 December: Thomas BLOCH (in DOYAL 1904: 32) visited. Herbert Daniel Gebauer - 07/05/2016

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