KASHMIR SMATS

Herbert Daniel Gebauer - 06/01/2018

An estimated 18 m wide and 6 m high cave entrance (unidentified orientation) is the bottom entrance to what is probably the most voluminous cave known from Pakistan: A natural cave passage, which contains not only a daylight window (skylight), a few lateral cave passages, and some structural remains but also is said to give access to a fabulous tunnel leading all the way to Kashmir (Srinagar). It is no miracle that this inhabitable cave is held sacred, at its minimum, by Buddhists, Hindus and Muslims. Since centuries, however, the temple cave's monastery, tirtha and stupas have been decimated by investigative goats and grazers, treasure hunters and archaeologists (note 1). ETYMOLOGY: -smats- = Cashmeer Ghar COURT, C A (1839: 312) Kashmir Cave BROOKS, S J (1990a: 3, 1990c: 3) Kashmir Smas Glennie, E A (s.a. circa 1948 Mss: Preliminary record …: Appendix B: North West Frontier Province: Peshawar district) Kashmir Smats DANI, A H (1964 map); Glennie, E A (s.a. circa 1948 Mss: Preliminay record …: Appendix B: North West Frontier Province: Peshawar district); Krishnaswami, V D (1946.07.03 Mss) Kashmir Smuts cave Oram, Arthur (1914.01.21 Mss) great cave of Kashmiri-Ghâr CUNNINGHAM, A (1871: 44, 56) Kashumiro Sumasuto MIZUNO, S (1962) Mystery Frontier Cave GORDON, D H (1942.03.08) cave of Roostam COURT, C A (1839: 312) Antro Roustam COURT, C A (1839 map) cave of [at] Rustam cave of Sudana WATTERS (1904-1905 / 1988,1: 218) stone chamber of Sudana BEAL, S (1884 / 1981, i: 112-113) SITUATION: Kashmir Smats lies at a travelling distance of about 27 km along the road from Mardan Cantonment (note 2) north or NNE past (14 km) Jamal Garhi (note 3) up to (5 km) Katlang (note 4), another 10 km (or so) to the village of Babuzai (note 5), and then about three hours on foot initially north-east and later steeply uphill east. The cave, formed in a massive grey limestone from one to two thousand feet [305 m to 610 m] thick, possibly more, [which is] severely contorted in detail, and ut by numerous calcite stringers and veins (DANI, A H 1964: 7), lies at an elevation of about (±60 m) 670 m asl (note 6) on the west facing flank of the Paja Hill (note 7), about 5 km along a footpath north-west from the village of Pirsai (note 8) and about 12 km in a direct line approximately north-west of Rustam (note 9). SITUATION 1993: LONELY PLANET, Pakistan (KING & SAINT VINCENT 1993: 261): On a ridge of Paja hill above the village of Pirsai (Persai 34°25'N: 72°15'E): Take a bus north from Mardan past Jamal Garhi to Katlang and a pick-up on to Babuzai village. From Babuzai a rocky road eastward becomes a path which enters a valley after 1 1/2 hours' walking. A further steep 1 1/2 hours walk, with fine views, brings you to a concrete building, and the complex is about half an hour on, about 2100 feet [640 m] high. To reach the cave, head away from the monastery to the other side of the pass and double back. Steps lead into the cave … from here [i.e. from the cave, not from ashmir] you can descend a difficult two hours to Pirsai, from where it's easy to catch buses to Shabaz Garhi and Mardan. SITUATION 1990: Somewhere in an unidentified range of limestone hills at Mardan to the north of the city (BROOKS, S J 1990: 3). SITUATION 1948: Stopping the night at the excellent Canal Inspection Bungalow at Hamzakot [note 10], two miles from Rustam, the cave is reached by an easy nine mile [14.5 km there and back again] walk past the village of Persai [Pirsai 34°25'N: 72°15'E] and rising [to an elevation of] about 2500 feet [762 m] (Glennie, E A circa 1948 s.a. Mss: Preliminary record …: Appendix B: North West Frontier Province: Peshawar district). SITUATION 1923: About 21 miles [34 km] north-west of Mardan and in the Paja range [note 11] (Archaeological Survey of India, Annual Report, 1922 - 1923 p. 19 in: Glennie, E A circa 1948 s.a. Mss: Preliminary record …: Appendix B: North West Frontier Province: Peshawar district). The immediate approach to the cave,which is dangerously steep, should be improved. Many wouldbe visitors have been deterred by the precipituous nature of the lasz fifty feet of the ascent. SITUATION 1871: The great cave of Kashmiri Ghar lies within three or four miles (9 km or 12 km) from Palodheri and at a distance of just eight miles (13 km in a direct line) northwest of Bazar … a large village … quite close to the town of Rustam (CUNNINGHAM, A 1871: 44, 56). SITUATION 1839: Antro Roustam is shown on a map decorated with a fashionable grid resembling coordinates (COURT 1839). POSITION 1948: In the vicinity of N34°26': E072°14' (Everest 1830) or simply at N. Lat 34° 26' E. Long 72° 14' (Glennie, E A circa 1948 s.a. Mss: Preliminary record …: Appendix B: North West Frontier Province: Peshawar district).POSITION 1964: Near 34°25'50”N: 72°13'30”E: 610 m (unspecified geodetic datum probably Everest 1830, DANI, A H 1964: 5). POSITION 2003: 34°25'40”E: 72°14'00”E (WGS84, nima.mil/geonames accessed 16.11.2003 wayhoo.com accessed 25.05.2004; earthsearch.net accessed 2010.10.16). CAVE DESCRIPTION 0648 - 1884: … Mount Dantaloka … where the prince Sudana dwelt in solitude … Between the crags (of the mountain) there is a stone chamber, where the prince and his wife dwelt and practiced meditation (XUANZANG 648 translated by BEAL 1884 / 1981, i: 112-113). CAVE DESCRIPTION 0648 - 1905: About 20 li north-east from Palusha was the Dantaloka (Tan-ta-lo-ka) mountain… [with] a cave in the cliff (XUANZANG 648 translated by WATTERS 1905 / 1988,1: 218) CAVE DESCRIPTION 1839: Cashmeer Ghar, situated in the territory of the Baboozeïs, on a mountain which cannot be ascended but on a steep passage, hewn into a great measure out of the rock. This place is also called Pelley [Persai], and is 16 koss [about 30 or 65 km] from the town Soukhor [?]. The cave is said to be of immeasurable depth, and to have so large an aperture, that it is impossible to discern the direction by casting a stone. As both sides of theentrance are of solid masonry [rock?], and the front is encumbered with enormous cut stones, one would imagine that it is one of the subterranean temples … [note 12] (COURT 1839: 312). CAVE DESCRIPTION 1922: From this natural cave which contains, however, structural remains, were recovered certain interesting carved wooden panels and small columns, now in the British Museum. A complete clearance and examination of this cave is most desirable […] The immediate approach to the cave is dangerously steep. Many wouldbe visitors have been deterred by the precipitous nature of the last fifty feet [15 m] of the ascent (ARCHAEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF INDIA 1922-1923, edited by Marshall ?: Report of the Archaeological Survey of India for 1922 - 1923) CAVE DESCRIPTION 1948: Edward Aubrey G— approached not only Kashmir Smas (sic!) but also Kashmir Smats in a much prefixed condition of mind but found his prejudice collapsing, hence successfully managed to frustrate himself and eventually decided that th cave is disappointing as it is dead and dusty, in length about 150 yards [an estimated 140 m], breadth 20 yards [18.3 m] and height 20 feet [6.1 m] at the entrance increasing to about 40 feet [12.2 m] inside. … About 100 yards [91 m] in on the East side a steep ramp 10 yards [9.1 m] wide leads forty feet [12.2 m] up to a semicircular upper chamber with a [relatively] small skylight [with unspecified dimensions] in the roof about 80 feet [24.4 m] up. There are short passages none more than 10 yards [9.1 m] long, one with steps to it was evidently used as a monk's cell. The only new stalactite [speleothem] was in this cell with a small stalagmite pillar beginning below it. The only [secondary calcite] formation of interest was a fine stalagmite boss and [a flowstone] cascade in the main chamber sparkling with calcite crystals. All other formations are dead and decayed. In the lower part of the cave a masonry tank received the water which showered from the roof over this cascade and povided water for the Buddhist monks. No water now comes down and decay will soon set in (Glennie, E A circa 1948 s.a. Mss: Preliminary record …: Appendix B: North West Frontier Province: Peshawar district). CAVE DESCRIPTION 1990: … what is presently Pakistan's biggest cave [and by now is perhaps even a little more biggest cave] called 'Kashmir Cave' being a 300 meter [sic! for: an estimated 300 feet?] long passage up to 40 meters in diameter ending in [sic! qua: leading to] a massive aven to daylight (BROOKS, S J 1990a: 3).… what is presently Pakistan's biggest cave called 'Kashmir Cave' being a 300 meter [sic! for: an estimated 300 feet?] long passage up to 40 metres in diameter ending in [sic! qua: leading to] a massive aven to daylight (BROOKS, S J1990c: 3). CAVE DESCRIPTION 1997: A comparatively huge [cave] entrance [leads] to some 150 m of cave passage (25 by 25 m large) which leads to a surface shaft with ancient village beneath [note 13] (Brooks, S J 1997 Mss: Pakisan Cave Database). CULTURAL HISTORY - fabulous tunnel: In the name of the cave 'Kashmir' has reference to the local belief that the cave goes as far as Kashmir (note 14). At a closer look, the tunnel alleged to go to Kashmir is a crawl of a few feet under a boulder leading to a joint opening about eight inches [20 cm] wide and three feet [0.9 m] high which goes in some distance but is quite impassable (Glennie, E A circa 1948 s.a. Mss: Preliminary record: Appendix B: North West Frontier Province: Peshawar district). LONELY PLANET, Pakistan (KING & SAINT VINCENT 1993: 261) confirm that a legend says there is a tunnel all the way to Kashmir. CULTURAL HISTORY - religious folklore: COURT, C A (1839: 312): … one would imagine that it is one of the subterranean temples attributed to the Pandoovans [Pandava brothers of Mahabharata fame], or the Caffers. At present it is a place of shelter for myriads of wood-pigeons. …I am not aware if this cave be identical with that of Roostam, to whic I have alluded in my description of Yousoufzeïs (Eusofzai; in: -Afghanistan Journey-?). CUNNINGHAM, A (1871: 44, 56) identifies the Cave of Prince Sudana in Mount Dantaloka as described by Hwen Thsang (XUANZANG 648) with the great cave of Kashmiri Ghar. XUANZANG (648; translated by WATTERS 1905 edited 1988,1: 218): About 20 li north-east from Palusha was the Dantaloka [note 15] Tan-ta-lo-ka) mountain … [with] a cave in the cliff … where Prince Sudana and his wife practiced Samadhi. XUANZANG (648 edited by BEAL, S 1884 / 1981,1: 112-113): In old times Sudana the prince, having been banished from from his home, dwelt in Mount Dantaloka (Tan-ta-lo-kia) … To the north-east of Po-lu-sha city about 20 li or so [5.5 km] we come to Mount Dantaloka … where the prince Sudana dwelt in solitude … Between the crags (of the mountain) there is a stone chamber, where the prince and his wife dwelt and practiced meditation. CAVE LIFE: COURT, C A (1839: 312) noticed a few myriads of wood pigeons (sic! ua: rock pigeons? Pterocles exustus Temminck). Glennie, E A (circa 1948 s.a. Mss) narrates having had seen (undated since writing the above circa 1948 s.a. Mss) how bats [Chiroptera] occupy the main chamber and rock pigeons nest near the skylight (note 16). LONELY PLANET, Pakistan (KING & SAINT VINCENT 1993: 261) recommends to mind the bats (Chiroptera). I have alluded in my description of Yousoufzeïs (Eusofzai; in: -Afghanistan Journey-?). CUNNINGHAM, A (1871: 44, 56) identifies the Cave of Prince Sudana in Mount Dantaloka as described by Hwen Thsang (XUANZANG 648) with the great cave of Kashmiri Ghar. XUANZANG (648; translated by WATTERS 1905 edited 1988,1: 218): About 20 li north-east from Palusha was the Dantaloka [note 15] Tan-ta-lo-ka) mountain … [with] a cave in the cliff … where Prince Sudana and his wife practiced Samadhi. XUANZANG (648 edited by BEAL, S 1884 / 1981,1: 112-113): In old times Sudana the prince, having been banished from from his home, dwelt in Mount Dantaloka (Tan-ta-lo-kia) … To the north-east of Po-lu-sha city about 20 li or so [5.5 km] we come to Mount Dantaloka … where the prince Sudana dwelt in solitude … Between the crags (of the mountain) there is a stone chamber, where the prince and his wife dwelt and practiced meditation. CAVE LIFE: COURT, C A (1839: 312) noticed a few myriads of wood pigeons (sic! I have alluded in my description of Yousoufzeïs (Eusofzai; in: -Afghanistan Journey-?). CUNNINGHAM, A (1871: 44, 56) identifies the Cave of Prince Sudana in Mount Dantaloka as described by Hwen Thsang (XUANZANG 648) with the great cave of Kashmiri Ghar. XUANZANG (648; translated by WATTERS 1905 edited 1988,1: 218): About 20 li north-east from Palusha was the Dantaloka [note 15] Tan-ta-lo-ka) mountain … [with] a cave in the cliff … where Prince Sudana and his wife practiced Samadhi. XUANZANG (648 edited by BEAL, S 1884 / 1981,1: 112-113): In old times Sudana the prince, having been banished from from his home, dwelt in Mount Dantaloka (Tan-ta-lo-kia) … To the north-east of Po-lu-sha city about 20 li or so [5.5 km] we come to Mount Dantaloka … where the prince Sudana dwelt in solitude … Between the crags (of the mountain) there is a stone chamber, where the prince and his wife dwelt and practiced meditation. CAVE LIFE: COURT, C A (1839: 312) noticed a few myriads of wood pigeons (sic! I have alluded in my description of Yousoufzeïs (Eusofzai; in: -Afghanistan Journey-?). CUNNINGHAM, A (1871: 44, 56) identifies the Cave of Prince Sudana in Mount Dantaloka as described by Hwen Thsang (XUANZANG 648) with the great cave of Kashmiri Ghar. XUANZANG (648; translated by WATTERS 1905 edited 1988,1: 218): About 20 li north-east from Palusha was the Dantaloka [note 15] Tan-ta-lo-ka) mountain … [with] a cave in the cliff … where Prince Sudana and his wife practiced Samadhi. XUANZANG (648 edited by BEAL, S 1884 / 1981,1: 112-113): In old times Sudana the prince, having been banished from from his home, dwelt in Mount Dantaloka (Tan-ta-lo-kia) … To the north-east of Po-lu-sha city about 20 li or so [5.5 km] we come to Mount Dantaloka … where the prince Sudana dwelt in solitude … Between the crags (of the mountain) there is a stone chamber, where the prince and his wife dwelt and practiced meditation. CAVE LIFE: COURT, C A (1839: 312) noticed a few myriads of wood pigeons (sic! I have alluded in my description of Yousoufzeïs (Eusofzai; in: -Afghanistan Journey-?). CUNNINGHAM, A (1871: 44, 56) identifies the Cave of Prince Sudana in Mount Dantaloka as described by Hwen Thsang (XUANZANG 648) with the great cave of Kashmiri Ghar. XUANZANG (648; translated by WATTERS 1905 edited 1988,1: 218): About 20 li north-east from Palusha was the Dantaloka [note 15] Tan-ta-lo-ka) mountain … [with] a cave in the cliff … where Prince Sudana and his wife practiced Samadhi. XUANZANG (648 edited by BEAL, S 1884 / 1981,1: 112-113): In old times Sudana the prince, having been banished from from his home, dwelt in Mount Dantaloka (Tan-ta-lo-kia) … To the north-east of Po-lu-sha city about 20 li or so [5.5 km] we come to Mount Dantaloka … where the prince Sudana dwelt in solitude … Between the crags (of the mountain) there is a stone chamber, where the prince and his wife dwelt and practiced meditation. CAVE LIFE: COURT, C A (1839: 312) noticed a few myriads of wood pigeons (sic! ua: rock pigeons? Pterocles exustus Temminck). Glennie, E A (circa 1948 s.a. Mss) narrates having had seen (undated since writing the above circa 1948 s.a. Mss) how bats [Chiroptera] occupy the main chamber and rock pigeons nest near the skylight (note 16). LONELY PLANET, Pakistan (KING & SAINT VINCENT 1993: 261) recommends to mind the bats (Chiroptera).