GANGOTRI SHELTERS

Herbert Daniel Gebauer - 06/01/2018

A couple of inhabitable rock shelters have been described as many caves formed by overhanging stones, which yield a shelter to those who cannot find accommodation in the sheds (FRASER, J B 1820: 468). SITUATION 1815: A gunshot below Gungotree [note 1] (FRASER, J B 1820: 467) and in the close vicinity of the small temple, or mut, dedicated to the goddess Gunga, or Bhagiruttee (Bhagirathi). The temple is situated precisely on the sacred stone on which Bhagiruttee used to worship Mahadeo, and is a small building of a square shape for about twelve feet high, and rounding in, in the usual form of pagodas, to the top. It is quite plain, painted white, with red mouldings, and surmounted with the usual melon-shaped ornaments of these buildings. From the eastern face of the square, which is turned nearly to the sacred source [of the Ganges, –>Gaumukh], there is a small projection covered with a stone roof, in which is the entrance facing the east, and just opposite to this there is a small pagda-shaped temple to Bhyramjee. The whole is surrounded by a wall built of unhewn stone and lime, and the space this contains is paved with flat stones. In this space too there is a comfortable but small house for the residence of the Brahmins who come to officiate (FRASER, J B 1820: 468). SITUATION 2001: Gangotri … the source of the River Ganges (known locally as Bhagirathi until it reaches Deoprayag) … is probably the single most holy spot in India. In fact, the physical source of the river, the 'Cow's Mouth', is 18 km farther north at Gaumukh, but most pilgrims are content to make do with the spiritual source at the understated Gangotri temple, built by the Gorkha commander Amar Singh Thapa in the 18th century. The setting, at 3042 m, is magnificent, and the attractive temple compound features a ghat where the devout dip in the freezing waters. Nearby is the rock on which Shiva is said to have received the Ganga in his matted locks, but it's submerged for most of the year (LNELY PLANET, North India 2001: 504).APPROACH: We approach it through a labyrinth of enormous shapeless masses of granite, which during ages have fallen from the cliffs above that frown over the very temple, and in all probability will some day themselves descend in ruins and crush it. Around the inclosure, and among these masses, for some distance up the mountain, a few fine old pine-trees throw a dark shade, and form a magnificent foreground; while the river runs impetuously in its shingly bed, and the stifled but fearful sound of the stones which it rolls along with it, crushing together, mixes with the roar of its waters (FRASER, J B 1820: 468-469).NELY PLANET, North India 2001: 504).APPROACH: We approach it through a labyrinth of enormous shapeless masses of granite, which during ages have fallen from the cliffs above that frown over the very temple, and in all probability will some day themselves descend in ruins and crush it. Around the inclosure, and among these masses, for some distance up the mountain, a few fine old pine-trees throw a dark shade, and form a magnificent foreground; while the river runs impetuously in its shingly bed, and the stifled but fearful sound of the stones which it rolls along with it, crushing together, mixes with the roar of its waters (FRASER, J B 1820: 468-469).