VRIDDHA GANGA GUMPHA
19.933300,73.550000
Description
The sacred Godavari river (note 1) issues secretly, according to popular legends, from the same source as the Ganges (–>Uttaranchal State: Gaumukh) to proceed hidden --under the familiar title Vriddha Ganga-- along a subterranean passage (–>Patala Ganga) via a fabulous tunnel (note 2) to the Vriddha Ganga Gupha at Trimbak, where it »rises« (sic!), fully visible even for non-believers. »From a spring high on a steep hill above Trimbak, 33 km west of Nasik, the source of the Godavari River dribbles …« (LONELY PLANET, India 1997: 856; 2005: 725). The »source« represented by a dirty pool of standing water polluted by countless pilgrims »kissing« (washing their faces and hands) the water oozing from the rock face above the underground cistern before taking samples away in jerry cans and PET (polyetylen) bottles. SITUATION: Half an hours' hike up south-west from Trimbak (note 3) to the approximately 250 m wide base of a magnificent cliff exposing Deccan Trap basalts above a north-east facing, vertically 150 m (estimated) high scree slope (palkis are available). The three sacred caves up here (Vriddha Ganga Gumpha, Goraknatha Gumpha and Trimkak Cave 2) are all visible from far away as the temple buildings and open air rock surfaces are white-washed in contrast to the dark natural surface colour of the basalt. The three sites are reached by a well-paved path, which ascends across well-laid steps and is flanked on both sides by a continuous series of stalls and shacks dedicated to selling dreadfully sweet sugar cane juice or refreshing Chal Jeera (note 4), devotional CDs, pious DVDs, empty water bottles and a broad variety religious paraphernalia and commodities pleasing Hindu Indian tastes. The first, most south-easterly cave reached –>is Vriddha Ganga Gumpha, the second (central one) is –>Gahininath Gumpha and the third, most north-westerly, is –>Goraknatha Gumpha. CAVE DESCRIPTION: A couple of steps ascend to the white-washed cliff-face exposing massive Deccan Trap basalts where a door leads to a rectangular, rock-cut chamber (about 4 m wide, 2 m high and 3 m horizontally deep. The first metre is for standing visitors while the interior two metre are occupied by a plinth and cult spot on the left-hand side, and a low wall (stone railing) on the right, behind which one can look down to the filthy, sacred water. An energetic pujari (temple guide) regulates human traffic in addition to the collection of water samples (sacred souvenir) and income (cash money, decapitated flower heads). CULTURAL HISTORY - religious entertainment: »Right in the middle of Brihmagiri mountain is Gangadwar. In the time from 1907 A.D. to 1918 A.D. the resident of Kuchh, Seth Karamasi Hansraj built 750 stairs [more likely: saw to have one stair with 750 steps built] and made the road for the visitor's case [or, perhaps, for the visitor's ease] and comfort. Here are situated the caves of Shri Goraknath in which the sage Gautam had received the ascetic accomplishment« (DUTT, Manvesh s.a. circa 2005 literally quoted).
NOTE 1: »Godavari River.– A great river of southern India, which runs across the Deccan from the Western to the Eastern Ghats; for sanctity, picturesque scenery, and utility to man, surpassed only by the Ganges and the Indus; total length about… [1450 km]; estimated area of drainage… [290,000 square kilometres]. The source of the river is on the side of a hill behind the village of Trimbak, in Nasik district, Bombay [presidency], only about… [70 km] from the shore of the Indian Ocean. At this spot is an artificial reservoir reached by a flight of 690 steps, into which the water trickles drop by drop from the lips of a carven image, shrouded by a canopy of stone« (IMPERIAL GAZETTEER 1907-1909, 12: 297). NOTE 2: The fluvial detour from the Himalaya to the Western Ghats involves a deep dive through the Ganges trough followed by an otherwise uncommon uphill flow to Trimbak. NOTE 3: The pilgrimage industry centre Trimbak (Trymbak) at N19°54': E073°33' (Everest 1830, IMPERIAL GAZETTEER 1907-1909, 24: 49) or at N19°56': E073°33' (nima.mil/geonames accessed 16.11.2003) and near N19°55'30”: E073°32'30” on AMS sheet NE43-02 Ahmednagar (U502 series, 1962 edition) lies at a travelling distance of about 33 km along he road approximately west of Nasik / Nashik (N19°59': E073°48' on AMS sheets NE43-02 Ahmednagar and NF43-14 Dhulia) and is unexpectedly indicated as »Trunbak« in the India Road Atlas (Eicher Goodearth 2006) map 81 G4. NOTE 4: A sorbet prepared from water, lime juice, sugar, salt and ground cummin.
Documents
Bibliography 04/07/2016Cavités proche
| Distance (km) | Nom | Longueur (m) | Profondeur (m) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0.0 | GORAKHNATH GUMPHA, Trimbak | ||
| 0.0 | GAHININATH GUMPHA, Trimbak | ||
| 0.0 | JALTIRTHA CAVE, Trimbak | ||
| 3.9 | ANJANERI HILL CAVE, 2nd | ||
| 3.9 | ANJANERI HILL CAVE, 3rd | ||
| 20.9 | PANDU LENA, Nasik | ||
| 22.2 | DHERM RAJ LENA | ||
| 27.0 | SITA GUMPHA, Nasik | ||
| 28.4 | TABOVAN, Nasik (Caves at) |