DECHEN PHUG, Dzongri, Jongri, Zongri
27.450000,88.183300
Description
Not much of a cave but a temple cave, which is not formed in limestone (sikkim.eegc.org/recit.php, accessed 2009.08.15) but sacred to Guru Rinpoche Padmasambhava, lies at a comparatively high elevation of about 4000 m asl and represents the western of the –>Four Great Caves of Sikkim, which are arranged like a mandala at four cardinal points in the real world (note 1). ETYMOLOGY: The Tibetan "dechen phug" has been translated as »cave of Great Happiness« (WADDELL 1895: 256-257 note 2) and »Höhle des großen Glücks« (HUMMEL 1957: 628) or simply as »Cave of Happiness« (VERMA 1996: 31). So far, I saw the name of this cave spelled, transcribed or edited as bDe-ch'en p'u WADDELL (1895: 256-257 note 2) bDe-chen-phuk HUMMEL (1957: 628) De-chhen phu RISELY (1928 edited 1993, 1995: 253) Dechen Phu VERMA (1996: 31) Dechenphu sikkim.eegc.org/recit.php (accessed 2009.08.15) Dechenphuk AMS sheet NG45-03 Kanchenjunga (U502 series, 1963 edition) Dechhenphu VERMA (1996: 31)Nub-Dechén Phug scstsenvis.nic.in/newsletter2004.html (accessed 2006.08.06).SITUATION 1: In western Sikkim near Dzongri, Jongri or Zongri (note 2) and at a linear distance of about 50 km corresponding to a travelling distance (note 4) of 100 km or 120 km NNW of Darjeeling (N27°02': E88°16'), and at a walking distance of 10 km short of (approximately south) the Kangchenjunga »HMI Base Camp« at 4575 m asl (15,000 ft, VERMA 1996) and on the approach to Khang La and Goecha La (4940 m asl, LONELY PLANET, India 2005: 535). The Dechen Phug near Dzongri (Jongri, Zongri) is reached from Yuksom (note 6) by a 26 km walk gaining 2000 m in elevation and what one Indian trekking guide (note 5) considers »an arduous ramble of three days« via 14 km to Bakhim (N27°24' E88°12'30”: 2740 m asl), 2 km to Choka / Tsokha (note 7) and 10 km to Dzongri (Jongri, Zongri) at 3900 m asl (12,800 ft) or 4023 m asl (13,200 feet, MACDONALD 1943: 105). SITUATION 2: Near Jongri. WADDELL (1895: 256-257 note 2, edited 1899b, 1934, 1939, 1991) places »bDe-ch'en p'u … in the snow near Jongri … [in] west Sikhim« (sic!). RISLEY (1928 edited 1993, 1995: 253) repeats WADDELL (1895). HUMMEL (1957: 628) follows WADDELL (1895: 256-257 foornote 2): »Die Höhle des großen Glücks (bDe-chen-phuk) [liegt] im Westen des Landes [i.e. »Sikhim« or Sikkim] bei 88°11' 27°27'.« SITUATION 3: Near Zongri. VERMA (1996: 31): »Dechhenphu (the cave of happiness) in the west … Dechen phu is also equally inaccessible and lies near Zongri.« SITUATION 4: Near Dzongri: »Nub- Dechén Phu … is located near Dzongri, a blissful welkin deemed as one of the eminent trekking destinations of Sikkim. Trekkers may commence their venture from Yuksom, in west Sikkim. From here, an arduous ramble of three days shall bring them to the cave« (scstsenvis.nic.in/newsletter2004.html accessed 2006.08.06). POSITIONS: North East aslHUMMEL (1957: 626) 27°27': 88°11' — nima.mil/geonames (16.11.2003) 27°28': 88°09' — LONELY PLANET, India (2005: 535) — — 4025 m VERMA (1996) — — 3900 m / 12,800 ft sikkim.eegc.org/recit.php (2009.08.15) — 3000 m APPROACH: »Lever à 05h45 pour une très grosse journée en vue. D'où nous sommes nous devons atteindre la grotte 1200 m plus haut à 3000 m d'altitude. Petit déjeuner à base de maïs grillés et de thé au beurre salé pour nous mettre en jambe. Nous commençons la montée en forêt rendue pénible par les multiples sangsues qui nous attaquent. Rien n'y fait, le sang commence à couler de nos chevilles. Notre guide (le chef de famille des maisons) nous coupe des bâtons pour nous aider car nous peinons beaucoups. Vers 2400 m nous bifurquons en suivant une crête et nous enchainons tant bien que mal la montée en montagne russe. Nous mettrons près de 4 heures pour atteindre la grotte sacrée par Guru Rinpoché. Celle-ci n'est toujours pas calcaire et ne doit pas dépasser les 20 m de long. Dechenphu est un petit boyau rempli d'offrandes en tout genre. Pièces, tissus, coupelles, calices et divers objets hétéroclites. Une cabane non loin de là sert d'abris pour les pélerins et les chasseurs« (sikkim.eegc.org/recit.php accessed 2009.08.15). CAVE DESCRIPTION: None reported. CAVE DESCRIPTION 2006: »At the main cave are located two lesser caves of ‘Supreme Higher Attainments’ and three lesser caves of ‘Common Attainments’. Besides these there are numerous large and small caves where enlightenment has been attained« (scstsenvis.nic.in/newsletter2004.html accessed 2006.08.06). CULTURAL HISTORY - religious folklore: »Nub- Dechén Phu, also known as the ‘Cave of Great Happiness … This holy abode of Guru Padmasambhava is believed to be associated with the ‘ God of Infinite Light’. It is believed that this cave, which is as big as a three storied building, contains sacred images representing the body , speech and mind, ritual objects, and complete sutras [note 8] and tantras [note 9] translated in Tibet. Legend has it that treasured stores that could feed almost half the population of the world are also hidden here. Just by going to this cave one can acquire ‘Supreme Higher Attainment’. … On the right side of the cave grows a fragrant medicinal tree which bears many kinds of flowers and fruits believed to cure diseases« (scstsenvis.nic.in/newsletter2004.html accessed 2006.08.06). »It is said that during the 8th century AD … Guru Padmasambhava … [first] succeeded in subduing the spirits« of –>Be Phug and »requested them to protect the caves but not to bring any harm to those who came there to pray and meditate. … After this Guru Padmasambhava persevered his search to the other caves, namely, Lho Khandro Sang Phug [–>Kahdo Sang Phug], Nub-Dechén Phug [i.e. Dechen Phug] and Byang Lhari- rinchen-nying Phug [–>Lhari Nying Phug]. Like in the first cave, here too he overcame the haunting spirits and sanctified the caves as holy places for worship for the practitioners of Buddhist faith« (scstsenvis.nic.in/newsletter2004.html accessed 2006.08.06).
NOTE 1: »… the four great caves of Sikhim [are] hallowed as the traditional abodes of St. Padma and Lhatsün Ch'embo, and now the objects of pilgrimage even to Lamas from Tibet. These four caves are distinguished according to the four cardinal points, viz.: The North Lha-ri ñing p'u or "the old cave of God's hill." It is situated about three days' journey north of Tashiding, along a most difficult path. This is the most holy of the series. The South Kah-do sang p'u, or "cave of the occut fairies." Here it is said is a hot spring, and on the rock are many footprints ascribed to the fairies. The East sBas p'u, or "secret cave." It lies between the Tendong and Mainom mountains, about five miles from Yangang. It is a vast cavern reputed to extend by a bifurcation to both Tendong and Mainom. People go in with torches about a quarter of a mile. Its height varies from five feet to one hundred or two hundred feet. The West bDe-ch'en p'u, or "cave of Great Happiness." It is in the snow near near Jongri, and only reacheable in the autumn« (WADDELL 1895: 256-257 note 2, 1899, 1934, 1939, 1991: 256-257 note 2), NOTE 2: »Jongri« (WADDELL 1895; MACDONALD 1943: 105), »Zongri« (VERMA 1996) or »Dzongri (4025 m), a pleasant area of meadows with several trekkers' huts where you can get food and also tomba« (LONELY PLANET, India 2005: 535) and »Dzongri, a blissful welkin deemed as one of the eminent trekking destinations of Sikkim« (scstsenvis.nic.in/newsletter2004.html, accessed 2006.08.06) is indicated as »Oongri« (sic!) in the India Road Atlas (Eicher Goodearth 2006: 26 C3) and positioned as »Dzongri« at N27°28': E88°09' (nima.mil/geonames accessed 16.11.2003) in an area that lies at approximate linear distances of A) 15 km approximately north of the –>Dechen Phug at Netham, B) 30 km approximately north of Mt. Singalila (N27°14': E88°02') and Phalut (N27°13': E88°02'), or C) 4 km approximately ENE from N27°27': E88°11' (HUMMEL 1957: 626). NOTE 4: »Yuksom is about 176 kms away from the nearest Railway Station, NJP [New Jalpaiguri N26°41': E088°29' ], and about 180 kms away from Bagdogra [N26°42': E88°19'], the nearest Airport« (scstsenvis.nic.in/newsletter2004.html> (accessed 2006.08.06). NOTE 5: scstsenvis.nic.in/newsletter2004.html (accessed 2006.08.06). NOTE 6: From Yuksom »… the trail follows the Rathong Valley through unspoilt forests and then ascends steeply to Bakhim (2740 m) and then Tsokha (3050 m), a rustic village with a decent trekker's hut. It's a good idea to spend two nights at Tsokha to acclimatise, or to spend the following night at the camp site at Phedang (3760 m), two hours above Tsokha. The next stage brings you to Dzongri (4025 m), a pleasant area of meadows with several trekkers's huts where you can get food and also tongba« (LONELY PLANET, India 2005: 535). The »pretty village of Yuksom (1780 m) … can be reached by public transport from Geyzing (Gezing, Gyalshing, Gyalzing N27°17': E88°16'] or Jorethang« (LONELY PLANET, India 2005: 535) and is indicated as »Yaksam« near N27°22': E88°13' on AMS sheet NG45-03 Kanchenjunga U502 series, 1963 edition), as »Yuksam« in the India Road Atlas (Eicher Goodearth 2006: 26 C4) and as »Yoksum 5,600 feet« (1707 m asl) in VERMA (1996: Map of Sikkim).VERMA (1996: Road Map of Sikkim, Darjeeling Area & part of Bhutan): »Yoksum« is accessible along roads from Darjeeling (N27°02': E088°16') by travelling 20 km to Jorethang, ? km to Reshi and 16 km to Legship (Ligship N27°17'30”: E088°17'30”), from where one of two roads runs 13 km via Tashiding and 19 km to Yoksum and the other initially 16 km to Geyzing (Gezing, Gyalshing, Gyalzing N27°17': E088°16'), then 8 km to Pemayantse (Pemayangtse N27°18': E088°15'), later 16 km to Melli (Melli Bazar N27°06': E088°27') and finally 17 km to Yoksum. NOTE 7: »Tsokha (3050 m)« (LONELY PLANET, India 2005: 535), »Choka, 9000 feet« or 2743 m asl (VERMA 1996). NOTE 8: "Sutra", literally »string«, is the Sanskrit name for a »list of rules expressed in verse« (LONELY PLANET, India 2005: 1112). NOTE 9: "Tantras" -- Tantric Buddhism is a variety of »Tibetan Buddhism with strong sexual and occult overtones« (LONELY PLANET, India 2005: 1112).
Documents
Bibliography 21/03/2016History
EXPLORATION HISTORY: 2004.08.21: sikkim.eegc.org/recit.php (2004 accessed 2009.08.15) narrates to have risen at 05h45 for the great journey incolving a 1200 m ascent to »Dechenphu« the »grotte sacrée par Guru Rinpoché« (a cave sacred to Guru Rinpoche Padmasambhava) at 3000 m asl.
Caves nearby
| Distance (km) | Name | Length (m) | Depth (m) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2.0 | KIBEK CAVE | ||
| 9.6 | LHARI NYING PHUG | ||
| 9.8 | NARBUGANG | ||
| 9.8 | KYONGDEY | ||
| 9.8 | CHE CHO PHUG | ||
| 10.2 | YOUKHUMNEY CAVE | ||
| 10.4 | DUPHUG | ||
| 12.8 | DUMDONGLA L'HAPS | ||
| 13.1 | ZOOM ROCK GARDEN CAVE |