PHO GOMPA, Tabo

(Spiti - IN)
32.083300,78.383300
Grottocenter / carte

Description

Herbert Daniel Gebauer - 01/06/2016

Man-made rock-cut chambers ('cave' dwelling / settlement, souterrain) which once were used for troglodyte monastic purposes (note 1), contain (or contained?) faded rock art (note 2). SITUATION: In the Spiti valley, opposite accross the road from Tabo village (note 3) and the Kyil Khor (Mystic Mandala Temple). CAVE DESCRIPTION 1926: »On the hill side, almost like cave dwellings, are the winter houses of the lamas« (FRANCKE 1926 edited 1972, 2: 38). CAVE DESCRIPTION 1932: »The winter seat of the monks, with their small cells dug into the rock which overhangs to the north of Tabo plateau, has been abandoned (plate 2a); the hermitages have been deserted and are beginning to crumble« (TUCCI 1932-1941 edited 1988e: 37). CAVE DESCRIPTION 1979: »These caves are totally dark from inside and have been neglected for many years although their walls have the ancient paintings [note 4] which were done by the Indian craftsmen who decorated the temples of the Chos-'khor. Unfortunately these paintings are in a terrible state and, without considerable renovation, it is not possible to discern very much on the rocky« (KHOSLA 1979: 37). CAVE DESCRIPTION 1995: »The town and monastery of Tabo are located in a valley of the Spiti river, which flows along the edge of the plateau on which the town and its few fields are situated. Right next to the road that crosses the valley along the northern side of the plateau, and opposite the town, rises a northerly exposed cliff containing caves. These caves all lie at the same height, and can be easily reached from the road over a gradually ascending path. … man-made caves connected with one another and built up, in some cases, into more than one level. In Tabo … traces could be found of old hearths, niches, seats and grain storage areas. Of the wall paintings mentioned by Khosla however, I found no trace« (CÜPPERS 1995: 131). CAVE DESCRIPTION 1997: »Tabo Gompa … On the other side of the road, opposite Tabo village, there are some caves, known locally as duwang, with some famous ancient murals. The caves have been damaged over the years, but are being gradually restored« (LONELY PLANET 1997: 312). CAVE DESCRIPTION 2001: »Tabo Gompa … there are some caves known locally as Pho Gompa, with some faded ancient murals --bring a torch (flashlight)« (LONELY PLANET, India 2001: 284; 2003: 283; 2005: 303; LONELY PLANET, North India 2001: 355. omitted in LONELY PLANET, India 2009: 395-396).

Herbert Daniel Gebauer - 01/06/2016

NOTE 1: NOT SEEN: FRANCKE (1910: 666- 668). NOTE 2: An inscription in the main temple (tsuglag khang) indicates that the temple was founded by Guge's most illustrious monarch-turned-monk, Yeshe Ö, in 996 and repainted in 1042 under the patronage of his great-nephew and successor Chenchub Ö (PRITZGER 1989, 1992, 1996: 28). NOTE 3: Tabo is indicated near N32°05': E078°23' on the Survey of India sheet 52-L (edition 1959) above the left (north) bank of Spiti River and at a travelling distance of about 25 km downstream of »Dankhar Gompa« (Dankhar Dzong). NOTE 4: »Of the wall paintings mentioned by Khosla however, I found no trace« (CÜPPERS 1995: 131).

Documents

Bibliography 01/06/2016
  • Cüppers, Christoph 1995; Francke, August Hermann 1910, 1926 edited 1972; Khosla, Romi 1979; Lonely Planet, India 1997, 2003, 2005; Pritzger, Thomas J 1989, 1992, 1996; Tucci, Giuseppe 1935, 1936, 1988d, 1988e.

Caves nearby

Distance (km)NameLength (m)Depth (m)
25.1YULLANG CAVE
871.4PANGU KHOLA SHELTER
1138.6Qizil Ming Öy
1615.6TSAGHAN USSE GROTTO
1735.8TUN-HUANG CAVES
1745.0Rje kun 'gro
1746.3Tieren (Grotte de)
2187.6Tchagyrka (Grotte de)00
2208.2Денисова пещера