BHARTRIHARI CAVE, Ujjain (Cave of)
23.183300,75.783300
Description
The man-made structure, which has sunken underground, consists of an »ancient building of masonry, buried in part under the ruins of the old city« (HAMILTON 1801: 37-38) but has been interpreted as subterranean clay mines (CONOLLY 1837: 852) and is considered a »cave« (HAMILTON 1801) or even »caves« (CONOLLY 1837) and is said to have been used as a troglodyte hermitage retreat on an ancient trade route (LONELY PLANET, India 1997: 779; 2005: 618) by the poet king Bhartrihari (Bhartrari, Bhirthery) and the legendary magician saints Goraknath (Gorakhnath) and Gopichand (Gopicand), the latter's pupil. The frequently visited (note 1) structure is endowed with fabulous tunnels that connect underground to far away places attracting pilgrims and tourists, including sacred sites in Uttar Pradesh (Prayag at Allahabad, Varanasi / Benares) and Uttaranchal (Hardwar, –>Bhubaneshwar at Gangolihat). SITUATION: Near the temple of Gadkalika above the right (locally north) bank of Shipra / Sipra / Kshipra river at the city of Ujjain (N23°11': E75°46'). CAVE DESCRIPTION a.i. 1: NOT SEEN: AA (a.i.: unknown title.- E.I. United Service Journal) [after CONOLLY 1837: 853, note *). CAVE DESCRIPTION a.i. 2: NOT SEEN: COLEBROOKE (a.i.: unknown title.- Asiatik Researches?) [CONOLLY 1837: 853, note #[. CAVE DESCRIPTION 1801: »… on the present bank of the Siparah is the cave, or subterraneous abode of the Raja Bhirtery. Before the gate of the court are two roes [sic!] of stone pillars, one running from east to west, the other from south to north. You enter the court from south-ward; within it are the entrances of two caves, or divisions of the palace. The outermost enters from the south,; and is sunk about three feet under ground. From this entrance (which is on the side) it runs straight east, being a long gallery, supported by stone pillars, which are curiously carved, with figures of men in alto relievo. These figures, however, are now much effaced. The inner apartment also enters from the south. This is a pretty wide chamber, nearly on the level of the ground, the roof supported on stone pillars, over which are laid long stones, in the manner of beams. On the north side, opposite the entrance, is a small window, which throws a faint light into the apartment. It looks down upon the low ground, beneath the bank, on which the building is situated. On the left hand, or west side of the apartment, is a small triangular opening in the stone pavement. Through this you descend, about the height of a man, into an apartment truly subterraneous, and perfectly dark. This is also supported by stone pillars, in the same manner as the upper one. It first runs eastward, and then turns south. On the left hand side are two chambers about seven feet by eight [2.1 by 2.4 m]. At the southern extremity is a door, which probably lead into some farther apartment, but is shut up with earth and rubbish. The fakeers [saddhus] who reside here say a tradition exists, that one subterraneous passage went from hence to Benares [Varanasi], and to Hurdwar [Hardwar]: and they tell us, that this door was shut up, about twelve or fourteen years ago, by the government, because people sometimes lost themselves in the labyrinth. This is said to be the place in which the Rajah Bhirtery, the brother of Vicramadittya [Vikramaditya], shut himself up, after having relinquished the world« (HUNTER 1801: 37-38). CAVE DESCRIPTION 1828: »… no cave at all, but part of an ancient building of masonry, buried in part under the ruins of the old city, and so far become subterranean, and at presence the only appearance that deserves the name« (HAMILTON, W 1828, 2: 341). CAVE DESCRIPTION 1837: CONOLLY (1837: 852-853, location map [plate XLIII or XI.III?] opposite page 813) mentions »lings« (more than one lingam), Shiva, marks of feet engraved, cut figures of Goraknath and his disciple Bhirtri, and interprets »raja Bhirtri's caves« as relics of clay mines: »… the great caves … are very low, and not of any great extent. They are supported by pillars, clumsy, but massive, and the walls and ceilings are lined with enormous blocks of stone …« CAVE DESCRIPTION a.i.: NOT SEEN: WILLIAMS JACKSON (a.i.: Journ, American Oriental Society, vol. XXIII = 23: 313 sqq) (source: BRIGGS 1967: 123, 8). CAVE DESCRIPTION 1938: BRIGGS (1938, edited 1973: 121-122) refers to Prof. A.V. Williams Jackson »visiting the cave of Bhartrhari at old Ujjain: In the inner cave or hall is to be found a figure, or picture, of Gorakhnatha with Gopicand (Gopichand) on his left. Nearby, in the underground vault, is the caran [charan = footprint] of Matsyendranath. An opening in the roof of the cavern is said to lead [by a fabulous tunnel] ultimately to Benares.«
NOTE 1: No pilgrim misses to visit the cave of Bhartrihari in which the legendary king, having tasted all pleasures of love, ended his live in pious self castigation (GLASENAPP (1928: 46). »Bhartrihari Caves [sic!] … According to popular tradition, this is the spot where Bhartrihari, who is said to have been the step brother of Vikramaditya, lived and meditated after renouncing worldly life. He is believed to have been a great scholar and poet. His famous works, Shringarshatak, Vairagyashatak, and Nitishatak, are known for the exquisite use of the Sanskrit meter« (simhastha.nic.in/.../what_to_see.htm accessed 2007.12.12).
Caves nearby
| Distance (km) | Name | Length (m) | Depth (m) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 37.7 | CHAMUNDA DEVI GUFA, Dewas | ||
| 106.0 | AWAR (Caves near) | ||
| 113.7 | Benaiga Caves | ||
| 116.7 | DHAMNAR CAVES | ||
| 116.7 | BHIM's BAZAR, Dhamnar | ||
| 116.7 | BARI KACHERI | ||
| 116.7 | HATHIGAON CAVES | ||
| 116.7 | RAMAGAON CAVES | ||
| 116.7 | KHOLVI (Caves at) |