KAHDO SANG PHUG
27.249800,88.302300
Description
A cave in the dolomitic limestone of the Buxa Formation (AGGARWAL & MEHTA 2012) represents not only a sacred temple cave near a hot spring of water (38°C) but also the southern of the four of the –>Four Great Caves of Sikkim (note 1), which are arranged like a mandala in the real world (WADDELL 1895: 256-257 note 2). ETYMOLOGY: So far, I saw this cave called, transcribed, or edited as Kah-do sang phug WADDELL (1895: cave of the Occult Fairies) mKha'-'gro-gsang-phuk HUMMEL (1957: 628: Geheimnisvolle Dâkini-Höhle) Kahdosangphu VERMA, R (1996: 31: cave of the fairies) Kandodangphu N27°14'50”: E088°18'50” AMS sheet NG45-03 Kanchenjunga (U502 series, 1963 edition) Lho Khandro Sang Phug scstsenvis.nic.in/newsletter2004.html (accessed 2006.08.06); sikkimstdc.com/GeneralPages/Details/Phur-Tsa-Tshu/… (accessed 2013.09.28) Kangdosangphu sikkim.eegc.org/recit.php (accessed 2009.08.15) Rishi, cave near AGGARWAL & MEHTA (2012: 133). SITUATION 1895: In South Sikkim (WADDELL 1895: 256-257 note 2). SITUATION 1928: In south Sikkim (RISLEY 1928 edited 1993, 1995: 253). SITUATION 1957: HUMMEL (1957: 628 after WADDELL 1895) locates the enigmatic Fairy Cave in southern Sikkim: »mKha'-'gro-gsang-phuk (Geheimnisvolle Dâkini-Höhle) im Süden Sikhims.« SITUATION 1995: »Kahdosangphu (cave of the fairies) in the south … lies at Reshi [note 2] hot springs on the Jorethang [note 3] Gyalshing [note 4] highway. To reach the hot spring and the cave, one has to walk about 10 minutes from the highway across the river Rangit [note 5] by a pedestrian suspension bridge« (VERMA, R 1996: 31). SITUATION 2004a: »Kangdosangphu … se trouve en contrebas de la route et l'on y accède par un sentier très pentu, puis un pont suspendu au dessus de la rivière« (sikkim.eegc.org/recit.php 2004 accessed 2009.08.15). SITUATION 2004b: »Lho Khandro-Sang Phug … lies about 6 kms [possible there and back again] away from the sleepy hamlet of Reshi in the western pocket of Sikkim. … Reshi, the closest town near the cave, lies about 108 kms away from NJP [New Jalpaiguri N26°41': E088°29'], the nearest railhead. If traveling by air, the nearest airport is Bagdogra [N26°42': E088°19'], which is about 111 kms away from this Western hamlet. From Siliguri [N26°42': E088°26'], the entry point to Sikkim, Reshi can be reached via the numerous taxi or bus services commuting everyday. There are no lodging facilities at Reshi. However, visitors can find numerous hotels and guest houses at Jorethang, a town lying 16 kms away from Reshi. For a more adventurous stay, one can also camp along the banks of the river Rangit which flows near the cave. The best time to visit the cave is during the tourist season.This is either from March to late May or from September to mid December« (scstsenvis.nic.in/newsletter2004.html accessed 2006.08.06). SITUATION 2012: In South District on one or the other »the left bank« (or so) of the Rangit River, rather about 11 miles (about 18 km approximately south-west along the road) than »110 km from Gangtok [N27°20': E088°37']« and allegedly about »1.8 km« (or 1.8 miles, 3 km) north of Rishi, at an altitude of 500 m and in an unspecified spatial relation »near« the »Rishi thermal spring [note 7] … known as Phur Cha Chu thermal spring by Bhutias and Lepchas, and as Tatapani by Nepalese … The thermal spring is situated in the dolomites of Buxa Formation. The contact between Buxa Formation and Gondwana is well exposed in the area. Near Tatapani (thermal spring) temple several algal structures like stromatolites are found in the dolomites« (AGGARWAL & MEHTA 2012: 133). SITUATION s.a.: »This hot spring can be reached after an hour downhill drive towards the Rangit river valley. It is approximately 6 km from Legship [note 8]. From the road head one has to walk down fifteen minutes to the hot spring site« (note 9)POSITION: »Latitude 27.249832°: Longitude 88.302315° [N27°14'59.4”: E088°18'08.3”]« sikkimstdc.com/GeneralPages/Details/Phur-Tsa-Tshu/… (accessed 2013.09.28). CAVE DESCRIPTION 1895: »… Kah-do sang phug, or "cave of the occult fairies." Here is said is a hot spring, and on the rock are many footprints ascribed to the fairies« (WADDELL 1895: 256-257 note 2). CAVE DESCRIPTION 2004a: There is not only a cave entrance in limestone at »Kangdosangphu« but also a daylight window in addition to cave walls sculpted into shapes depicting figures, the relic of a phreatic pressure tube, a sacred painting, and, at the very bottom of the 20 m long cave, soil covering the floor (note 10) (sikkim.eegc.org/recit.php> 2004 (accessed 2009.08.15) . CAVE DESCRIPTION 2004b: »Lho Khandro-Sang Phug … Upon entering the cave, one can see on the ceiling, the lungs and heart of a demoness emitting the nectar of longevity [in Sanskrit: mrita], and below, is the vase of longevity surrounded by about seven ritual offerings. Under the vase lies the remains of the demoness, including head, arms and other parts. On their right are the figures of animals. As one moves forward, one comes to twelve narrow obstacles. Passing over the first, one reaches the shrine hall of Guru Padmasambava, containing his whole body, its imprints, his headgear, and the imprints of this hand, which can be seen clearly. Then proceeding downwards, one comes upon a secret passage« (scstsenvis.nic.in/newslet of its location and religious significance. Hot Water Springs or Cha-chu of Reshi are traditional winter spas where visitors and local pilgrims spend a week or more soaking in these springs that are believed to have medicinal properties. … Adjacent to the river is a small monastery and holy cave called “Lho Khandro Sang Phug”, also known as the cave of occult fairies« (note 11). CULTURAL HISTORY - religious folklore & cave conservation: »It is said that during the 8th century AD … Guru Padmasambhava … [first] succeeded in subduing the spirits« of –>Be Phug and »requested them to protect the caves but not to bring any harm to those who came there to pray and meditate. … After this Guru Padmasambhava persevered his search to the other caves, namely, Lho Khandro Sang Phug [Kahdo Sang Phug], Nub-Dechén Phug [–>Dechen Phug] and Byang Lhari- rinchen-nying Phug [–>Lhari Nying Phug]. Like in the first cave, here too he overcame the haunting spirits and sanctified the caves as holy places for worship for the practitioners of Buddhist faith. … Lho Khandro-Sang Phug … is also known as the cave of occult fairies. It … is said to be associated with the ‘God of Increasing Knowledge’ … [and] believed to be the cave of longevity and increased knowledge. Here, all wishes for longevity, Virtues and abundance will be fulfilled. … It is believed that making a pilgrimage to this sacred place and going round it with reverence will cleanse the sins committed during lifetime« (scstsenvis.nic.in/newsletter2004.html accessed 2006.08.06). CAVE LIFE: Little doubt remains that sikkim.eegc.org/recit.php (accessed 2009.08.15) reports that an anonymous observer noticed on 19th August 2004 not only a day roost of unidentified bats (Chiroptera) or »une nuée de chauve-souris« at home in »sort du petit conduit« (a kind of small sized cave passage) but also the visible presence of juvenile / pre-adult male specimens of giant crab spiders (Arachnida: Aranea: Sparassidae: conf. Heteropoda sp.): »… grosses araignées zébrées noir et jaune nous barrent l'entrée un court instant« (large spiders, striped yellow and brown, barred immediate entering).
NOTE 1: »… the four great caves of Sikhim [are] hallowed as the traditional abodes of St. Padma and Lhatsün Ch'embo, and now the objects of pilgrimage even to Lamas from Tibet. These four caves are distinguished according to the four cardinal points, viz.: The North Lha-ri ñing p'u or "the old cave of God's hill." It is situated about three days' journey north of Tashiding, along a most difficult path. This is the most holy of the series. The South Kah-do sang p'u, or "cave of the occut fairies." Here it is said is a hot spring, and on the rock are many footprints ascribed to the fairies. The East sBas p'u, or "secret cave." It lies between the Tendong and Mainom mountains, about five miles from Yangang. It is a vast cavern reputed to extend by a bifurcation to both Tendong and Mainom. People go in with torches about a quarter of a mile. Its height varies from five feet to one hundred or two hundred feet. The West bDe-ch'en p'u, or "cave of Great Happiness." It is in the snow near near Jongri, and only reacheable in the autumn« (WADDELL, L A 1895: 256-257 note 2). HUMMEL, S (1957: 626 after WADDELL, L A1895): »in Sikhim sind vier Höhlen als Wallfahrtsorte berühmt geworden, die mandalahaft in den vier Himmelsrichtungen liegen … Es sind dies die Höhlen lHa-ri-rnying-phuk (Alte Höhle des göttlichen Berges) [im Osten] …, mKha'-'gro-gsang-phuk (Geheimnisvolle Dâkini-Höhle) im Süden Sikhims, sBas-phuk (Geheimgehaltene Höhle) als nördliche Grotte bei g.Yang-sgang … und die Höhle des großen Glückes (bDe-chen-phuk) im Westen des Landes …« NOTE 2: »Reshi« (VERMA, R 1996: 31), »Rishi« (AGGARWAL & MEHTA 2012: 133) indicated as »Rishi« near (±500 m) N27°22'50”: E088°19'10” on AMS sheet NG45-03 Kanchenjunga (U502 series, 1963 edition) above the orographically right (west) bank of the Rangit River. »The sleepy hamlet of Reshi in the western pocket of Sikkim … flaunts of a hot spring nearby, believed to hold medicinal powers, and footprint inscribed rocks which are attributed to that of the fairies« (scstsenvis.nic.in/newsletter2004.html accessed 2006.08.06). NOTE 3: »Jorethang« (VERMA, R 1996: 31): There are »hotels and guest houses at Jorethang, a town lying 16 kms away from Reshi« scstsenvis.nic.in/newsletter2004.html (accessed 2006.08.06). NOTE 4: »Gyalshing« (VERMA, R 1996: 31) Geyzing Gezing (±500 m) N27°17'20”: E088°15'30” (AMS sheet NG45-03 Kanchenjunga, 1963 edition) Gyalzing (N27°17': E088°16'). NOTE 6: Rangit (±500 m) N27°04'50”: E088°26'10” (AMS sheet NG45-03 Kanchenjunga (U502 series, 1963 edition) joins the orographically right (west) bank of the Tista about 4 km in a direct line west of Kalimpong. NOTE 7: »The spring water can only be used from January to April as during rest of the period it remains submerged in the Rangit river flow. The water of the spring emerges from underneath of a big boulder and is collected in the depressions made by the local people. The main pool of thermal water is large enough to accommodate 10 to 12 people in lying posture enabling them to enjoy the warmth of the spring for hours. The thermal water has a pungent odour due to sulphur content« (AGGARWAL & MEHTA 2012: 133). NOTE 8: »Legship« (Internet), »Ligship« (±500 m) N27°16'50”: E088°16'50” (AMS sheet NG45-03 Kanchenjunga, U502 series, 1963 edition)NOTE 9: sikkimstdc.com/GeneralPages/Details/Phur-Tsa-Tshu/… (accessed 2013.09.28) NOTE 10: »Kangdosangphu … est sacré, aussi nous passons saluer le moine qui en garde l'entrée. Un petit bonjour (tashi delek) et nous y allons. De grosses araignées zébrées noir et jaune nous barrent l'entrée un court instant, puis nous passons la grille donnant accès à un puits de lumière éclairant les rochers du porche d'entrée.Immédiatement, nous remarquons que cette grotte est calcaire et s'est donc formée de façon karstique. Passé ce puits de lumière, et quelques marches, nous atteignons le véritable porche. Ici et là les parois sculptées témoignent du caractère religieux de la grotte. Ailleurs un bloc très plissé a été mis en évidence. Sans doute est-ce la représentation d'une divinité, ou de la mère nourricière, la matrice ... Au sol du porche, s'ouvre une conduite forcée. Une nuée de chauve-souris sort du petit conduit. On s'engueule donc un peu pour savoir qui doit y aller. Finalement, on s'arrange mais la grotte est décevante car nous ne topographions que 20m. Le pendage est important mais nous ne le suivons pas, nous le traversons. Au fond c'est remplit de terre. Il y a une peinture sacré au fond.En redescendant la rivière Sangit, il y a quelques affleurements mais rien de significatif. Au dessus de la grotte, c'est la jungle impénétrable. Cette grotte fait également partie des 4 grottes sacrés du Sikkim« (sikkim.eegc.org/recit.php accessed 2009.08.15). NOTE 11: sikkimstdc.com/GeneralPages/Details/Phur-Tsa-Tshu/… (accessed 2013.09.28).
Documents
Bibliography 25/04/2016History
EXPLORATION HISTORY: 1996 October: Uwe Scherzer (1997 Mss) visited, mapped and explored. 2004.08.19: sikkim.eegc.org/recit.php (accessed 2009.08.15) narrates to have not only »Au menu du petit déjeuner, thé au lait de chèvre sucré et pain tibétain« (taken tea with goat milk and sugar along with Tibetan bread for breakfast) but also to have visited »Kangdohsangphu« where they eventually or »finalement, on s'arrange mais la grotte est décevante car nous ne topographions que 20 m. Le pendage est important mais nous ne le suivons pas, nous le traversons«
Caves nearby
| Distance (km) | Name | Length (m) | Depth (m) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 6.9 | TSE CHU PHUG | ||
| 6.9 | TSE CHU PHUG 2 | ||
| 7.6 | DRET GANG | ||
| 12.2 | BE PHUG | ||
| 15.3 | SITHA LINGDING | ||
| 15.4 | NARBUGANG | ||
| 15.4 | KYONGDEY | ||
| 15.4 | CHE CHO PHUG | ||
| 16.3 | ZOOM ROCK GARDEN CAVE |