JAWALA MUKHI
31.883300,76.316700
Description
Neither a »cave« (ERNDL 1993: 44) nor a »Höhle« (LASSEN 1861 edited 1968, 4: 365) but flammable gas emanating from fissures in rock attracts, if ignited, visitors to a »far-famed place of pilgrimage« (HERVEY 1853, 2: 8) which is »famous for its temple, and takes its name from the fire which perpetually issues from fissures in the rocks which are enclosed within the temple« (HERVEY 1853, 1: 22-23). Somebody cared not only to see a building erected above a square, man-made hole in the ground (note 1), about 0.9 m large (IMPERIAL GAZETTEER 1907-1909, 14: 88-87), but also dedicated the establishment to the goddess Vindhya Vasini or Vindhyavasini, Vindhyabasini, (note 2), a manifestation of Kali / Durga, who is manifested here as what was identified as the tongue of a »lambent flame of pale red colour« (HERVEY 1853, 1: 22-23), a »fire of a pale red colour, [which] appears to yield but little heat« (HERVEY 1853, 2: 10), and »a blue flame, … [which] briefly flares« (LONELY PLANET, India 1997: 283; 1999: 305; 2001: 257; 2003: 255; 2005: 274; omitted in the 2009 edition), called »Jawalajee« (WOLFF 1835: 329), »Joala-jee« (PARISH 1849: 364), or »Jwâla-Jee« (HERVEY 1853, 1: 21 note; HERVEY 1853, 2: 8). ETYMOLOGY 1850: »Jwala-Mookhi … "Jwâla" means "fire," "Mookhi" can be translated either as "mouth" or "spirit;" and "Jee" signifies "lord" (it is used as a term of respect)« (HERVEY 1853, 1: 21 note). ETYMOLOGY 1851: »The town is named Jwâla Mookhi from the famous temple, where fire perpetually issues from fissures in the rocks. "Jwâla" signifies "flame," and "Mookhi" mouth." The temple is also called "Jwâla-Jee." The latter word means "master," or "lord," and is a term of respect very common among the natives« (HERVEY 1853, 2: 8). SITUATION: At the foot of a precipitous range of hills forming the northern limit of the Beas valley, lies at travelling distances of 34 km (note 3) along the National Highway NH 88 south of Kangra (32°06'N: 76°16'E), about 20 km south-east of Jawala Mukhi Road (N32°01': E76°14' some 18 km south of Kangra) and 12 km north of Nadaun (N31°47': E76°21'). Geologicaly, it was DEHADRAI (1958: 211-214) who attempted to delineate the boundary between the Lower Siwaliks and Middle Siwaliks of the »Jwalamukhi« area. SITUATION 1850: »The village is large and might be properly termed a town. The streets are narrow and paved with stone. As Jwâla-Mookhi is built on the slope of a hill rising five or six hundred feet above the town, the streets are all more or less steep, and the stone paving is generally in regular steps. … the temple … is situated at the north end of the town« (HERVEY 1853, 1: 22). SITUATION 1851: »The temple is situated nearly at the top of the slope, and a hill rises immediately above the town, some eight hundred ot a thousand feet [an estimated 250 or 300 m] high« (HERVEY 1853, 2: 9). SITUATION 1927: »The Jvâlâmukî mountain is 3'284 ft [1001 m] high, the temple being at a height of 1882 ft [573.6 m« (DEY 1927: 82). DESCRIPTION 1590: »Torch-like flames issue from the ground in some places and others resemble blaze of lamps. There is an accourse of pilgrims and various things are cast into the flames with the expectation of obtaining temporal blessings. Over them a domed temple has been erected and an astonishing crowd assembles therein. The vulgar impute to miraculous agency what is simply a mine of brimstone« (ABUL FAZL I'ALLAMI s.a. circa 1590 in ERNDL 1993: 44). DESCRIPTION 1814: »Jwalamukhi … At this place, where the tongue of the Goddess fell, in the dispersion of her members … there is a small temple, perhaps twenty feet square. It is paved with large stones, and from a hole in one corner, perhaps two inches [5 cm] in diameter, there issues a constant flame, that at the lowest ebb rises about eighteen inches [45 cm], but in the rainy season it issues with great violence, and flame bursts from several parts of the floor, and also from some places without the temple« (HAMILTON BUCHANAN, Francis 1819 edited 2009: 312 after intelligence procured from Hariballabh at »Futtehgur« or Fattehgarh, in Farrukhabad district, Uttar Pradesh). DESCRIPTION 1828 : »Jwalamukhi … According to native accounts is paved with large stones, and from a hole in one corner there issues a constant flame, which, when at the lowest, rises about eighteen inches [46 cm]; but in the rainy season issues with great violence, flames bursting from various parts of the floor, and from places beyond the limits of the temple« (HAMILTON, Walter 1828, 2: 63 after BUCHANAN HAMILTON, F 1819). DESCRIPTION 1835: WOLFF (1835: 329) had heard about a miraculous fire at »Jawalajee« coming out of the earth. DESCRIPTION 1849: PARISH (1849: 364) prefers expressing a lack of understanding and sympathy over noticing at »Joala Mukhi« anything worthy of notice except a natural jet of gas called »Joala-jee« among bulls, debaucheries, monkeys, prayers, priests, and sacrifices. DESCRIPTION 1850: »April 3rd, 1850. Thursday. -- Jwâla-Mookhi is famous for its Temple, and takes its name from the fire which perpetually issues from fissures in the rocks which are enclosed within the temple … I went to see the famous temple. It is enclosed within high walls, and is situated at the north end of the town. The cupola is richly gilt, and the doors are of massive silver elaborately wrought. Two hideous tigers in golden effigy stand on a pedestal facing the entrance. On entering the sacred precincts, (at least, as far within the threshold as is permitted to sacrilegous feet) I saw three or four places whence issued a lambent flame of pale red colour. It is certainly a most extraordinary phenomenon, and I have never heard of a similar instance. The flames must arise from some gas in the rocks …« (HERVEY 1853, 1: 22-23).DESCRIPTION 1851: »The temple is surmounted by a gilt cupola. Two richly gilt tigers lie on a pedestal, which faces the portico of the temple, where two huge bells (of monstruous dimensions) are are suspended, and make a hideous booming sound, with ceaseless assiduity. I never witnessed such extraordinary phenomena as these spontaneous flames present. The fire is of a pale red colour, and appears to yield but little heat. Of course this phenomenon must arise from the presence of gas in the rocks« (HERVEY 1853, 2: 10). DESCRIPTION 1908: »Jawala Mukhi.- Ancient site … famous for the temple of the goddess Jawala Mukhi, 'she of the flaming mouth,' which … is built over some natural jets of combustible gas, believed to be a manifestation of the goddess Devi. Another legend avers that the flames proceed from the mouth of the demon Jalandhara, the Daitya king whom Shiva overwhelmed with mountains, and who gives his name to the Jullundur Doab. … The interior of the temple consists of a square pit about 3 feet [0.9 m], with a pathway all around. In the middle the rock is slightly hollowed out about the principal fissure, and on applying a light the gas bursts into flame. The gas escapes at several other points from the crevices of the walls of the pit. It collects very slowly, and the attendant Brahmans, when pilgrims are numerous, keep up the flames with ghi [ghee, clarified butter] …« (IMPERIAL GAZETTEER 1907-1909, 14: 88-87). DESCRIPTION 1927: »The celebrated temple has been cut out of the volcanic rock. It possesses no architectural beauty, nor anything worthy of notice except natural jets of gas which are ten in number, five being within the temple and five on its walls« (DEY 1927: 82). DESCRIPTION 1990: »Jawalamukhi, famous for its eternally burning flame, is the most popular pilgrimage site in Himachal Pradesh« (LONELY PLANET, India 1990: 196; 1993: 261). DESCRIPTION 1993: »This shrine, whose name means "Flame Mouth", is built into a cave where flames emerge mysteriously from the earth« (ERNDL 1993: 44). DESCRIPTION 1997: A comparatively »tiny square chamber where a priest … ignites natural gas emanating from a copper pipe, from which a blue flame … briefly flares« (LONELY PLANET, India 1997: 283; 1999: 305; 2001: 257; 2003: 255; 2005: 274; omitted in the 2009 edition). DESCRIPTION 2001: A comparatively »tiny square chamber where a priest … ignites natural gas emanating from a copper pipe, briefly producing a blue flame …« (LONELY PLANET, North India 2001: 304). CULTURAL HISTORY: 1851, March 13th: Mrs. Hervey »… saw a great many Fakirs cruizing about Jwâla Mookhi and its environs … Being a place of Hindoo pilgrimage, thousands of people swarm here to worship at this sacred temple« (HERVEY 1853, 2: 9-10). 1875 There is no idol of any kind, the flaming fissure being considered as the fiery mouth of the goddess whose headless body is in the temple of Bhawan (ARCHAEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF INDIA 1875 edited by CUNNINGHAM: Report of the Archaeological Survey of India for 1874 - 1875). 1902 According to one local tradition, the shrine of »yvalamukhi« is "older" (read: held in greater esteem) than others (VOGEL 1902: 37). 1908 »… at the principal festival in September - October as many as 50,000 [rather pilgrims than flames or rupees] are said to congregate … Another festival of scarcely less importance takes place in March« (IMPERIAL GAZETTEER 1907-1909, 14: 88-87). 1927 »According to ancient tradition, the flame issued from the mouth of the Daitya Jâlandhara. It is evidently the Badava of the Mahabharata (Vana. chapter 82« (DEY 1927: 82).1981 ROY CHAUDHURY, P C (1981: 29-32) recalls legends relating to »Jwala Mukhi.« 1997 »Pilgrims descend into a tiny square chamber where a priest, while intoning a blessing on their behalf, ignites natural gas emanating from a copper pipe, from which a blue flame, worshipped as the manifestation of the goddess, briefly flares« (LONELY PLANET, India 1997: 283; 1999: 305; 2001: 257; 2003: 255; 2005: 274; omitted in the 2009 edition). 2001 »Pilgrims descend into a tiny square chamber where a priest, while intoning a blessing on their behalf, ignites natural gas emanating from a copper pipe, briefly producing a blue flame, worshipped as the manifestation of the goddess« (LONELY PLANET, North India 2001: 304).
NOTE 1: The site with the hole (flame's mouth) is called Gvâlamukhi LASSEN (1861 edited 1968, 4: 365) Jawala Mukhi IMPERIAL GAZETTEER (1907-1909, 14: 88-87); LONELY PLANET, India 1993: 261) Jawalamukhi INDIA ROAD ATLAS (Eicher Goodearth 2006: 5 G2); LONELY PLANET, India (1990: 196; 1993: 261; 1997: 283; 1999: 305; 2001: 257; 2003: 255; 2005: 274; 2009: 382); LONELY PLANET, North India (2001: 304) Joala Mukhi PARISH (1849: 364) Jooala Mookhee FRASER (1820: 276) Jualamuki HÜGEL, C (1840, 1: 82-90) Jvala Mukhi ERNDL (1993) Jwâla Mookhi HERVEY (1853, 2: 7) Jwâla-Mookhi HERVEY (1853, 1: 21, 22-23) Jwalamukhi DEHADRAI (1958); HAMILTON BUCHANAN (1819 edited 2009: 312); HAMILTON, W (1828, 2: 63) Yvalamukhi DEY (1927: 82); VOGEL (1902: 37). NOTE 2: »Ein anderer Tempel dieser Göttin befand sich in einem weit entfernten Teile Indiens, nämlich in Gvâlamukhi an der Vipâça [Beas], nicht weit von Nagarakota, wo sie diesen Namen erhalten hatte, weil in einer dortigen Höhle Flammen sich zeigen …« (LASSEN 1861 edited 1968, 4: 365): Another temple of this goddess had been found in a remote part of India, i.e. in Gvâlamukhi on the Vipâça (Bipasa, Beas river), not far from Nagarakota (Nagarkot, about 3 km from Kangra), where she had received this name due to flames appearing in a cave there. NOTE 3: LONELY PLANET, India (1990: 196; 1993: 261; 1997: 283; 2001: 257; 2003: 255; 2005: 274; 2009: 382); LONELY PLANET, India (2001: 304). NOTE 4: One of the possibly best reasons given with the aim of persuading others that refraining from »to put off shoes« (WOLFF 1832: 329) in public is nursing an advanced state of athlete's foot.
Documents
Bibliography 29/03/2016- Abul Fazl I ‘Allami s.a., circa 1590 edited 1949, 1993; Dehadrai, P V 1958; Erndl, Kathleen M 1993; Fraser, James Baillie 1820; Hamilton, Walter 1828; Hamilton Buchanan, Francis 1819, 2009; Hervey, Mrs. 1853; Hügel, Carl [Hugel, Charles] 1836, 1840-1848, 1845; Imperial Gazetteer 1907-1909; Indien Handbuch 1984, 1994, 1998; Roy Chaudhury, P C 1981; Lassen, Christian 1861, 1968; Lonely Planet, India 1993, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2003, 2005; Lonely Planet, North India 2001; Mahabharata, s.a., circa -300 to 300; Moorcroft, William & Trebeck, George 1841; Parish, W H 1849; Vogel, J Ph. 1902; Wilson, Horace Hayman 1832; Wolff, Joseph 1835.
History
EXPLORATION HISTORY: 1360: Jwalamukhi was worshipped and attracted Muslim persecution when Firoz 3rd Shah took Nagarkot (WILSON 1832: 221). 1814: Francis HAMILTON BUCHANAN (1819 edited 2009: 4-5) had no chance to get anywhere close to »Jwalamukhi« but procured in the rainy season at »Futtehgur« (Fattehgarh, Farrukhabad district, Uttar Pradesh) from one »Hariballabh, a Brahman born in Kumau« (Kumaon, Uttarakhand) intelligence concerning a »constant flame« issuing »from a hole in one corner« of a relatively »small temple« (HAMILTON BUCHANAN 1819 edited 2009: 312). 1819: William Moorcroft and Georg "George" Trebeck were probably the first European visitors (MOORCROFT & TREBECK 1841, 1: 69-73). 1832.09.25: The cult spot attracted »thousands of Hindoos and even Mussulmans« when the German Jewish Reverend Joseph WOLFF (1832: 329) came close to »Jawalajee. Having heard that a miraculous fire came out of the earth at this place, I went to see it. Thouands of Hindoos and even Mussulmans come here in pilgrimage […] When I came near the spot whence the fire issues, the Hindoos desired me to put off my shoes; but this my concience did not permit, and therefore my curiosity was not satisfied« (note 4). 1836: »Baron Hugel« narrates a visit to »Jwalamuki« (HÜGEL, Carl Freiherr von 1836: 187; 1840,1: 82-90, engraving opposite page 87). 1850.04.03: Mrs HERVEY (1853, 1: 22-23) went on »April 3rd, 1850. Thursday … to see the famous temple.«1851.03.13: Mrs HERVEY (1853, 2: 7, 9-10) paid »On the 13th … a second visit to the famous temple …«
Caves nearby
| Distance (km) | Name | Length (m) | Depth (m) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 24.6 | KANGRA NATURAL BRIDGE | ||
| 24.6 | SAHASTRA DHARA, Kangra | ||
| 24.6 | SAHASTRA DHARA, Bhawan | ||
| 24.6 | SHAHASTRADHARA, Kangra | ||
| 28.5 | NANDIKESHWAR CHAMUNDA GUFA | ||
| 28.5 | MASRUR CAVES | ||
| 47.0 | LAHESH CAVE | ||
| 49.5 | TRILOKNATH CAVE, Kangra: Kotla | ||
| 59.7 | LEOPARD CAVE, Mandi |