BE PHUG
27.291700,88.416700
Description
Bas Phug (note 1), pronounced like pephuk (or so), is the eastern (note 2) of the –>Four Great Caves of Sikkim (note 3), which are arranged like a mandala in the real world (WADDELL 1895: 256-257 note 2). Bas Phug is reputed to contain galleries up to a »quarter of a mile« or 400 m long and 200 feet (60 m) high (WADDELL 1895) if not »several miles long« (WADDELL 1899a: 121). Uwe Scherzer (1997.05.07 Mss) surveyed the 54.3 m of passage length accessible without technical climbing aids and found several rift passages of gravitational origin, leaving vertical drops unexplored. The cave is sacred to Guru Rinpoche Padmasambhava and reputed to contain fabulous tunnels, which are said to connect to the tops, peaks and summits of neighbouring mountains. SITUATION: About 3 km approximately SSE from Rabangla, Rabongla or Ravangla (note 6) along the road (note 5) to Singtam (note 4), a broad footpath descends »on the left-hand side« (north) to a monastery (gompa) called Sangmo or Sangmoo (note 7). About a kilometre further on, one crosses a fair weather road (running from Ravangla down into the valley of the Rangpo Chhu). Still further downhill approximately east, a farm is passed (no name mentioned), from where a path heading south-east traverses -- more or less horizontally -- plantations of cardamoms (Elletaria cardamomum) and fairly light forest till the obvious trail descends to the Padmasambhava temple, which lies about 20 m below the caves and is managed by the »Yanggong« (note 8) gompa (after Uwe Scherzer 1997.05.07 Mss). SITUATION 1895: »Five miles« (8 km from Yangang (N27°17'30”: E088°25') but intends to place the mountains »Tendong« (note 9) and »Mainom« (note 10) »five miles« (8 km) from Yangang (WADDELL 1895: 256-257 note 2). SITUATION 1957: »sBas-phuk (Die Geheimgehaltene Höhle) -- östliche Grotte bei g.Yang-sgang (88°25' 27°17') …« (HUMMEL 1957: 626). SITUATION 1928: »The east Pé phu (sbas) … lies between the Tendong and Mainom mountains, about five miles from Yangang« (RISLEY 1928 edited 1993, 1995: 253). SITUATION 1996: Five miles from Rabongla: »Pephu (secret cave) in the east … lies near Sangmoo, which is situated five kilometers away from Rabangla on the highway between Singtam and Rabongla. One has to walk about half an hour downhill from Sangmoo to reach the cave which lies between the Tendong and Maenam hilltops« (VERMA 1996: 31). SITUATION 2004: Five kilometre from Ravangla: »Shar-chok Be Phug, lies between the hillocks of Tendong and Maenam, 5 kms away from the southern town of Ravangla. Shar-chok Bé Phug can be reached after a 5 km hike from Ravangla, a quaint settlement near the cave. Ravangla, in turn, can be reached either from the nearest Railway Station, NJP [New Jalpaiguri N26°41': E088°29'], which is about 125 kms away, or from Bagdogra [N26°42': E088°19'] Airport, which is about 127 kms away. One can find hotels and Guest Houses for accommodation at Ravangla, the nearest township from the cave. The cave can be visited in the tourist season, either during the spring months from March to late May or during the Fall, from September to mid- December« (scstsenvis.nic.in/newsletter2004.html accessed 2006.08.06). POSITIONS (note 11): The quite inaccurate 1: 200'000 TTK guide map Sikkim (1995, Madras: TTK Pharma Ltd., without coordinates) shows »Yangang« in South Sikkim district above the right (west) bank of Tista river. Yangang lies at approximate linear distances of 20 km about west-south-west of Gangtok (N27°20': E088°37') and 34 km about north of Kalimpong (N27°04': E088°29'). N27°17': E088°25' (unspecified geodetic datum, HUMMEL 1957: 626); N27°18': E088°26' (nima.mil/geonames accessed 16.11.2003); N27°17'30”: E088°25' AMS sheet NG45-03 Kachenjunga (U502 series, 1963 edition). CAVE DESCRIPTION 1895: Two fabulous tunnels, each several miles long, are reputed to be hidden in the back of the Yangang monastery in the »Teesta« (Tista) valley: The cave »sBas phug (Secret Cave) … is a vast cavern reputed to extend by a bifurcation to both Tendong [note 12] and Mainom [note 13]. People go in with torches about a quarter of a mile [402.25 m]. Its height varies between from five feet [1.5 m] to one hundred or two hundred feet [30 or 60 m]« (WADDELL 1895: 256-257 note 2, edited 1899b, 1934, 1939, 1991: 256-257 note 2). CAVE DESCRIPTION 1899: »Yangong monastery … Here are some caves said to be several miles long, and believed to connect the sacred mountains Tending and Mainom, all infested of course by devils« ( (WADDELL 1899 Among the Himalayas: 121). CAVE DESCRIPTION 1928: »The east Pé phu (sbas), or "secret cave" … is a vast cavern reputed to extend by a bifurcation to both Tendong and Mainom. People go in with torches about a quarter of a mile [402.25 m]. Its height varies between from five feet [1.5 m] to one hundred or two hundred feet [30 or 60 m]« (RISLEY 1928 edited 1993, 1995: 253). CAVE DESCRIPTION 1957: According to HUMMEL (1957: 626) is the sBas Phug near Yangang, the eastern of the four great caves of Sikkim, reputed to be 400 m deep and 1.5 m to 60 m in height (note 14). CAVE DESCRIPTION 1996: »Pephu (secret cave) in the east … Its height varies from five feet to one hundred feet« (VERMA 1996: 31). CAVE DESCRIPTION 1997 (after U. Scherzer 1997.05.07 Mss): The entire cave is developed along a prominent north-south trending rift (up to 2 - 4 m wide, 15 m high). A fallen slab wedged in the cave entrance provides sort of a platform or balcony, on which most of the religious performances are staged. Towards the interior of the cave, this platform is walled off by an altar constructed from stones piled up without mortar. Numerous mani stones and other religious paraphernalia give the impression that the site has been used for a long time. On the right-hand side of the balcony, a rough route descends into the cave proper. The floor of the cave is reached after some 10 m across fallen boulders. From here, the 4 m wide and 15 m high passage runs into a 2.5 m high collapse barrier, which can be negotiated by a "tree ladder" (notched tree trunk). A crawl continues for another 10 m to the top of an approximaely 10 m deep rift pot where offered coins are visible below and indicate that this pothole is considered as sort of a sacrifice pit. CAVE DESCRIPTION 2004.1: No cave name whatsoever is deemed noteworthy to narrate a tale (note 15) relating to a kind of »Première grotte sacré par Guru Rinpoché« or first cave sacred to Guru Rinpoche, which possibly identical with Be Phug as it is entirely formed in dislocated boulders along a geological disturbance, includes negotiating 10 m of fallen boulders to reach a first cave chamber, contains a notched tree trunk, and constrictions used as sin testing devices (sikkim.eegc.org/recit.php dated 2004 August, accessed 2009.08.15). CAVE DESCRIPTION 2004.2: »Shar-chok Be Phug … is a vast cavern, about a quarter of a mile [402.25 m] in length, with a height varying from five feet to two hundred feet [1.5 to 60 m]. The dark channels have to be lighted with torches as people come here to worship the spirits of the cave, which is said to be associated with the ‘God of Purification’.Shar- chok Bé Phug is also known as the abode of the ‘Peaceful White Deity’. It has an infinite number of self-arisen [swayambhu] figures. Above the entrance of the cave, inscriptions in a codified language can be seen. Upon entering the cave, one can see, on the right, the figures of 42 peaceful deities, and on the left, the figures of 69 wrathful deities. In the threshold, lies the seat occupied by Guru Padmasambava. After walking for a few meters one can see a figure of a demon emitting elixir of life from her heart. As you move ahead, there is a shrine where the deities are said to reside.On the right side of the cave, one sees self-arisen figure of Garuda (a winged deity), which when seen by local spirits, will disappear and depart to their own abode. Above it resides Guru Padmasambava. It is believed that just being told of his presence will cause all one’s wishes to the fulfilled. Guru Padmasambava promised that if lepers see him, they would be instantly cured. In the Eastern side is the abode of Peaceful Deities, where, it is believed that, whoever makes an effort to cleanse their sins, will overcome all illness caused by malignant spirits, the defilement of sins and other obstacles« (scstsenvis.nic.in/newsletter2004.html accessed 2006.08.06). CAVE POTENTIAL - prospects: Uwe Scherzer (1997.05.07 Mss), quite a good free climber, reported unexplored and unmapped rifts requiring vertical equipement. Harald Kirsamer (2001.02.05 Mss) points out that choosing spring -- a season with low vegetation -- is the best time to discover cave entrances covered by jungle on one's own. CULTURAL HISTORY - religious folklore & cave conservation: »It is said that during the 8th century AD, a Tibetan king was told by Guru Padmasambhava that Tibet’s sovereignty would be subjugated in the near future, rendering the practitioners of Buddhist faith to become severely pressured. Hearing this warning, the worried King requested Guru Padmasambhava to leave the country and search for a secure place for the practitioners. Guru Padmasambhava thus left Tibet and after crossing the Himalayas reached the kingdom of Sikkim. Walking along the mountainous retreat, his search brought him across a cave which was believed to be haunted by spirits. Upon entering the cave and meditating, Guru Padmasambhava succeeded in subduing these spirits. He then requested them to protect the caves but not to bring any harm to those who came there to pray and meditate. This cave later came to be known as Shar- chok Bé Phug [–>Be Phug]. After this Guru Padmasambhava persevered his search to the other caves, namely, Lho Khandro Sang Phug [–>Kahdo Sang Phug], Nub-Dechén Phug [–>Dechen Phug] and Byang Lhari- rinchen-nying Phug [–>Lhari Nying Phug]. Like in the first cave, here too he overcame the haunting spirits and sanctified the caves as holy places for worship for the practitioners of Buddhist faith« (scstsenvis.nic.in/newsletter2004.html accessed 2006.08.06). CAVE LIFE - bats (Chiroptera): Not only a cave floor covered in »excréments de chauves-souris« (bat guano) suffered being noticed on 18th August 2004 but also general »frôlements de chauves-souris« or frolicking of unidentified bats (sikkim.eegc.org/recit.php accessed 2009.08.15).
NOTE 1: So far, I saw this cave referred to as sBas phug »Secret Cave« WADDELL (1895: 256-257 note 2) Pé phu (sbas) »secret cave« RISLEY (1928: 253) sBas-phuk »Geheimgehaltene Höhle« HUMMEL, S (1957: 626) Pephu VERMA (1996: 31) Shyar Chok Bel Phu Scherzer (1997.05.07 Mss) Shar-chok Bé Phug »Abode of the Peaceful White Deity« (scstsenvis.nic.in/newsletter2004.html accessed 2006.08.06). NOTE 2: HUMMEL (1957: 626) mixed up the cardinal locations of Lhari Ning Phug (southern instead of northern) and Bas Phug (northern instead southern): In »Sikhim sind vier Höhlen als Wallfahrtsorte berühmt geworden, die mandalahaft in den vier Himmelsrichtungen liegen … Es sind dies [im Osten] die Höhlen lHa-ri-rnying-phuk (Alte Höhle des göttlichen Berges) …, mKha'-'gro-gsang-phuk (Geheimnisvolle Dâkini-Höhle) im Süden Sikhims, sBas-phuk (Geheimgehaltene Höhle) als nördliche Grotte bei g.Yang-sgang … und die Höhle des großen Glückes (bDe-chen-phuk) im Westen des Landes …« NOTE 3: »… the four great caves of Sikhim [are] hallowed as the traditional abodes of St. Padma and Lhatsün Ch'embo, and now the objects of pilgrimage even to Lamas from Tibet. These four caves are distinguished according to the four cardinal points, viz.: The North Lha-ri ñing p'u or "the old cave of God's hill." It is situated about three days' journey north of Tashiding, along a most difficult path. This is the most holy of the series. The South Kah-do sang p'u, or "cave of the occut fairies." Here it is said is a hot spring, and on the rock are many footprints ascribed to the fairies. The East sBas p'u, or "secret cave." It lies between the Tendong and Mainom mountains, about five miles from Yangang. It is a vast cavern reputed to extend by a bifurcation to both Tendong and Mainom. People go in with torches about a quarter of a mile. Its height varies from five feet to one hundred or two hundred feet. The West bDe-ch'en p'u, or "cave of Great Happiness." It is in the snow near near Jongri, and only reacheable in the autumn« (WADDELL 1895: 256-257 note 2). NOTE 4: Scherzer (1997.05.07 Mss) places Singtam at a travelling distance of »29 km« [sic! probably for 29 miles or 47 km] from Gangtok (N27°20': E088°37' on AMS sheet NG45-03) to Siliguri (Shiliburi, N26°42': E088°26' on AMS sheet NG45-07). nima.mil/geonames (accessed 16.11.2003) positions one Singtam at N27°09': E088°23' (30 km in a direct line south-west of Gangtok) and another, less likely Singtam at N27°18': E088°05' (51 km in a direct line west of Gangtok). MACDONALD (1943: 99-100) places Singtam 6 miles (9.7 km) from Martam and Martam 12 miles (19.3 km) from Gangtok: »Between Martam and Singtam the road passes through some very fine orange groves, while the countryside is cultivated all the way. Singtam is a big bazaar village, with Post Office. The river [Teesta, Tista] is crossed here by a good bridge, and another mile further on will be seen the bungalow of Sankakhola … 5 miles [8 km] to Rungpo, the Frontier Station between British India and Sikkim.« NOTE 5: According to Scherzer (1997.05.07 Mss), the are two roads from Singtam (N27°09': E088°23') to Rabangla. The one via Makh (not identified) is 46 km long (or, perhaps 46 miles = 74 km) and the other one via Tarku (not identified) is 36 km long (or, perhaps 36 miles = 58 km). NOTE 6: »Rabongla« (VERMA 1996: 31) at 7'000 feet (VERMA 1969: 35) or 3140 m asl near N27°16': E088°20' (AMS sheet NG45-03 Kanchenjunga, U502 series, 1963 edition), »Rabangla« (Scherzer 1997.05.07 Mss), »Ravangla« (scstsenvis.nic.in/newsletter2004.html accessed 2006.08.06), and »Ravangla (Rabongla)« is situate at a »spectacular setting between Gangtok and Pelling«and entertaining »stupendous views across western Sikkim, with the gompas of Old Ralang, Tashiding, Pemayangtse and Sangachoeling lined up against a backdrop of snow capped peaks« (LONELY PLANET, India (2005: 527-528). NOTE 7: »Sangmo« (Scherzer 1997.05.07 Mss) and »Sangmoo« (VERMA 1996: 31) is indicated as »Sangmo« near N27°17'30”: E088°18' on AMS sheet NG45-03 Kanchenjunga (U502 series, 1963 edition). NOTE 8: »Yangang« (WADDELL 1895; nima.mil/geonames accessed 16.11.2003) or »g.Yang-sngang« (HUMMEL 1957: 626) and »Yanggang« (Scherzer 1996 Mss) means "Cliffy Ridge" or "Lucky Ridge" and is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery built in 1841. In Waddell's time, it was inhabited by ten monks. NOTE 9: The »graceful mountain, Tendong« (WADDELL 1899: 101) and »Tendong 9593 [feet]« is indicated near N27°11': E088°25': 2924 m asl on AMS sheet NG45-03 Kanchenjunga (U502 series, 1963 edition) and some 12 km in a direct line due south of Yangong. NOTE 10: About 5 km in a direct line approximately north-northwest of Yangong, the »Spectacular Maenam Hill (3150 m): A steep 14 km trek above Ravangla [N27°16': E088°20'], is the Maenam Wildlife Sanctuary. The views are wonderful and you may see rare red pandas and monal pheasants (Sikkim's state bird). No permits are required for a day trip — the trail begins on the Ravangla - Ralang [N27°21': E088°14'] road« (LONELY PLANET, India 2005: 528). Maenam VERMA (1996: 31); scstsenvis.nic.in/newsletter2004.html (accessed 2006.08.06) Mainom WADDELL (1895: 256-257 note 2, 1899a: 121) Menam 10610 near N27°20': E088°24': 3234 m asl (AMS sheet NG45-03 Kanchenjunga, U502 series, 1963 edition) Mennam Hill ROCK (1953: 945) Mennam mountain NEBESKY WOJKOWITZ (1951: 35) Mennam peak ROCK (1953: 945) Mennam-chung ROCK (1953: 945). NOTE 11: Uwe Scherzer (1997.05.07 Mss) recorded the GPS position N27°16'27”: E088°03'50” (unspecified precision error, unspecified geodetic datum): 1300 m asl (unreliable 4-channel Garmin 4) which indicate a spot about 34 km east of Yangang (N27°17'30”: E088°25'). Perhaps a misprint for N27°16'27”: E088°23'50” or so. NOTE 12: The fabulous tunnel extending from Be Phug to Tendong Hill spans a linear distance of 12 km south at a vertical range of about 1600 m. NOTE 13: The fabulous tunnel extending from Be Phug to Maenam Hill spans a linear distance of 5 km north at a vertical range of about 1900 m. NOTE 14: (HUMMEL 1957: 626): »sBas-phuk (Die Geheimgehaltene Höhle) als östliche Grotte bei g.Yang-sgang, mit einer Tiefe von 400 m und einer Höhe, die zwischen 1.50 m und 60 m liegen soll« (after WADDEL 1895: 256-157). NOTE 15: »Première grotte sacré par Guru Rinpoché au VIIIème siècle (le deuxième Bouddha qui a convertie la région au Bouddhisme). Nambi fait sonner la cloche pendue au porche de la cavité et nous voilà partis topographier le réseau, après une brève reconnaissance. Il s'agit d'une grotte formée d'amas de blocs non calcaires. On y pénètre par une faille côté droit de l'autel, et en descendant sur une échelle taillée dans un tronc d'arbre. Cette faille se poursuit sur 10 mètres et l'on doit remonter en face, puis passer une chatière détrempée pour accéder à la salle principale. Toute la salle est recouverte d'excréments de chauves-souris. Ces dernières sont énormes et me font sursauter à leur passage. La topographie est difficile à réaliser dans cette salle d'éboulis. Les visées s'enchaînent sur des petites distances. Nous arrivons à pénétrer en dessous des blocs et atteignons une autre faille ainsi que des petites salles aménagées pour la prière. Des cairns et des dakas (écharpes votives en soie blanche) donnent au lieu une atmosphère étrange. On trouve aussi plein de pièces de monnaie, offrandes faites aux dieux. On découvre même un passage en chatière très spécifique. Dans une faille entre deux blocs et surmontés d'un autre, les pèlerins doivent ramper. S'ils y arrivent sans rester coincés ils sont purifiés de leurs pêchés. Dans le cas contraire, ils devront faire pénitence. La légende dit que si on les passe toutes, on sera purifiés pour toute la vie. Quelle chance, non ? On ne sera pas réincarnés en sangsues ou en cafard. Le reste de la topographie se poursuit tranquillement, à travers les frôlements de chauves-souris« (sikkim.eegc.org/recit.php dated 2004 August accessed 2009.08.15 forwarded by Michael Laumanns 2009.08.15). NOTE 16: »… topographier le réseau après une brève reconnaissance« (sikkim.eegc.org/recit.php dated 2004 August, accessed 2009.08.15).
Documents
Bibliography 18/05/2016History
EXPLORATION HISTORY: 1899 (before): Lawrence Augustine, later Lawrence Austine Waddell, draws the attention of gentlemen with a taste for carved doors to consider that even »a drizzling rain prevented our going up the hill to the Yangong monastery, which boasts a finely carved door. Its head Lama is one of the explorers of Tibet, Ugyen Gyatso, the "U.G." of the Indian Survey Reports« (WADDEL, L A 1899a: 121). 1996.10: Uwe Scherzer (1997.05.07 Mss) visited, mapped (54.3 m) and explored. 2004.08.18: sikkim.eegc.org/recit.php (dated 2004 August, accessed 2009.08.15) narrates to have »topographier le réseau après une brève reconnaissance« (mapped the cave after a short exploration (note 16).
Caves nearby
| Distance (km) | Name | Length (m) | Depth (m) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 3.3 | SITHA LINGDING | ||
| 7.3 | PHIM LEB CAVE, Lingmo | ||
| 9.2 | SING DANG (Cave near) | ||
| 11.9 | TSE CHU PHUG 2 | ||
| 12.0 | TSE CHU PHUG | ||
| 12.2 | KAHDO SANG PHUG | ||
| 16.5 | DRET GANG | ||
| 17.1 | PACHIKHANI MINES | ||
| 21.0 | NARBUGANG |